I'm a lazy urban tree man, not a logger. I have never found a good reason for making my notch at ground level. Mainly because no matter how low I cut the notch, I'm still going to make a stump cut to get the stump low and flat. Therefore I have always made my notch at a comfortable height while...
We have a lot more room over here. A 15' wide road would be considered one lane in the US. My truck is 8' wide to the outer edge of the tire treads, meaning the outside of the mirrors are about 9' wide. It gets a bit spooky sometimes on roads with only 10' wide lanes in heavy traffic.
The wire is on the other side of the road. I doubt the tree could reach it even if it were dropped toward the wire. The tree is 10-12' off the road, the road is probably 25' wide and the lines should be 10' off the other side of the road as well as being 20' high.
It's not that difficult to err on the side of caution, even if it means making the notch too small and then whittling away at it until it's the right size and lined up with the back cut.
I think for species that split fairly easily, the high back cut is more effective because the wood can split in a line straight down from the back cut. This leaves a nice long flap of wood to hinge over. For trees with a stronger grain (or more twisted grain), the wood is less likely to split...
But if the tree hits an obstacle later in the fall, there is a lot less chance of the tree kicking back because it will be falling almost straight down. I'm not saying it can't happen, but if the tree is already past 45 degrees then the chances of it kicking back are about nil. Unless you're...
Paul, I think it's more to keep the tree from shooting back over the stump if the top gets hung up or hits something. With that much weight and momentum, it's coming down. And if the top can't go forward then the butt is coming backward.
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