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When? When you are on one spar reaching for other spars, taking down all the spars on one trip downward... If the bar can reach it, gravity will pull it over.

The chunk should probably be at least as tall as it is wide, double the width would be a solid minimum. There is only trigger pulling, no manual anything.

Your saw, so far as I can tell, can stay put in kerf 3. In contrast, If you cut through your hinge, accidently, you can get your saw pulled or bar bent.

If you use a rear of COG hinge, you need to cut deeper and a steeper snipe as the hinge eats energy when bending. Most people, I would guess, have had a chunk tip, hinge bend, face- close, stallout. Then, you have to release the whole hinge cleanly, to avoid the chunk pulling to one side...

Faster, easier, less precision required for the same result, cutting big wood is where the precision is harder (bar length and a half+). Double-cutting with a very slightly j-cutting chain in bigger wood sucks to match up! The evidence and problems of a chain with some damage shows most when...

Bigleaf maple is barber chair-prone. I consider that factor whenever cutting maple, hearing and feeling the spar and chunk pop as is cut. I'll wrap the first horizontal kerf around both both sides, snipe it, then bring in the second horizontal. This is like a "box-cut" used to prevent...

That's the gist of it. To my recollection, Gord from BC was the feller who introduced it on TB, in the relatively early days. I've never heard it discussed outside the forums, but I don't know many people in the industry. Cut the first side of snapcut, add a snipe (square or at an obtuse...