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@sotc You had an interesting picture of crisscrossing, stacked wedges, way back in the day. I thought that was an interesting technique. If you have that one, or another, would you post it?

It's not from a double-blind controlled experiment, but, IMO, more wedges share the work, and you get less edge compressing the wood, and more lifting, more easily, than with fewer. My former supervisor, who is about 6'2-3", 230, and I beat over a big doug-fir with sapwood- rot (left...

Needs a picture. When I've used my bottle jack a few times, the compression of the wood formed an impression/ socket for the screw-cap to fit into. Tree jacks have a cool ability to have the plates swivel that are on the ends of the rams.

I have a 20t bottle jack on the truck. On a calm day, it's a help, on rare occasions. Pumping a lever is easier than beating wedges with aging joints. Keep the wedges tight. I consider a real tree jack, but rarely have use... money better spent on other things.

And with too thick of a hinge, definitely exhausting. A jack is a good complement to wedges, sometimes.

Wedges are easy to retrieve from the stump, rather than getting a rope out from under a tree, especially if one can leave the tree lay where it falls. OTOH, being very solid on skills with a throwbag/ line launcher pays the bills, too, especially with a non-isolated base tie.

As an idea, you can set your phone up to video the tensioning, using a small limb stuck in the ground, in frame, as a reference point. It won't help you if you are having to drive and judge the pre-load while pre-loading, but you can look at accurate information after tensioning, and back-off...

The tree is most stable when supported on wedges. If it opens the back-cut before you're ready, you might run into problems from wind rocking the tree back. I aim for methods that work every time, unless I have a specific reason to do otherwise. Would you explain your rationale for preloading...

Green, strong trees stand up very well on wedges, then can be pulled over with lighter force when you have the hinge cut as desired, without the increased risk of BC-ing. Seems people like to get a Lot of pre-load, even though the tree won't be sitting back and somehow losing ground. Using a...

Hardwoods don't allow the same good positioning relative to the butt of the cut as conifers commonly can. Sometimes, a couple feet is all you need. A groundie with a rope may be able to pull it away from an obstacle. That will add a downward vector to the limb.

To be more clear, the undercut kerf is Not lined up with the Coos Bay style cut. I put it inward.

Didn't watch the video. I will put a small kerf to prevent potential bark tearing, then Coos Bay long limbs, with a push on the butt away from the trunk to get a bit more clearance from an obstacle, with good success at flat landing. Tip landing would more likely end up with the butt on the...

Get good at cutting... only through practice. Coos Bay definitely has its place.