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Easier to match cuts on a mis-aimed face-cut... Easier to get a well-aimed face-cut then match a harder cut. All of this is backyard stuff, not only logging or woods-work. A few degrees matters whether to squeeze between obstacles, or hit a crash-pad.

I wish the gunning lines on Stihls would be a bit more raised...1/8" more. I was off a couple-6', in about 80 yesterday. I know I need my eyes checked and am coming to accept I might need glasses. When I train fellers, I tell them to use the gunning sight like a sniper rifle, not a shotgun...

I can't figure out how you can accurately cut the sloping first with a big saw and bar on uneven ground, on spurs, or a springboard.

No, not really. Often, a little lift with the bar, and face-cut pops free from a tiny bit of remaining uncut wood, which is quickly cleaned up, or the face-cut just slides off the bar. If it's a problem, a stick or wedge is useful. Wedges make it easy to pop out very-much cut-up facecut.

If you're really good at cutting faces dead-on, it doesn't matter. If you need a bit more adjustability for a tight squeeze, horizontal first allows it, much moreso. Full gap face-cuts, then a snipe seem to follow horizontal-first. This can give you a kick to one side or the other after the...

Always horizontal first. I shave most of my critical hinges down to wood, not bark, as well. Helps face-cut certainty... really hard to not see a Dutchman, and ability to monitor the wood while wedging or pulling. (Grouchy old man voice) Bark don't show squat!