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The bottom of the gullet should be basically flat, as it is when new. This will result in 10% above, if using the right sized file, which will give the right profile. People often have the 'floor' of the gullet toward the rear of the tooth rising, by pulling up or not pushing down enough.

The top plate, front working corner, front end, takes the beating. By the time you get the top plate right, the side plate is right. You need the right bevel angles and C-shape on the side plate, established by file size, and proper depth (about 10% above the top plate), and correct filing angle...

I can see the threads in my arborwear pants if I use my 5 y.o. cell camera's 4x's zoom. I can see well enough, but will use it to show my groundman what's up. He's coming along well.

Too much in the gullet will prevent the file from fitting the right way, making the right shaped profile. You will lose the 'working corner/ leading corner' (not sure what its called, technically). Also, as you file the cutter more, you need a smaller round file, because the cutter is shorter.

Where the chain is joined into a loop, there is sometimes an irregular sequence that can be a useful starting/ ending point. The Sharpie on the cleaned cutter's top-plate is useful, as Butch says. When you're going from barely-not-sharp back to sharp, it's useful to have a visible reference...

https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Shop-Light-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B003A00NN6 Something like this combo light/ magnifier would help. Sun or other bright light, plus a $1 Dollar Store, hand-held, magnifying glass would be a huge step over the naked eye.

http://www.madsens1.com/muu_barchain.htm

Good beta on that file angle...on an acute angle to the bar, not perpendicular. The rakers are noticeably tilted left and right. The file-to-raker angle is important for good cutting. Stihl chain is harder and needs harder files than Oregon, some others (possibly all others). I buy Stihl...