Search results for query: *

IF you're cutting straight, and start out level, its easy enough. If you have any overlap, a couple bangs on a wedge frees it up. If you're going to have to move the stump-cut by hand, wedges give the slippery surface that makes it easier. If you cut well through a stump, with a long bar, it...

I leave a bit of wood on three buttress roots on big stumps, then cut through those roots vertically, finishing by flushing off the unloaded roots. Wedge free, no settling.

Tucker shared a trick from his uncle. When cutting a top-bind, saw down until the log starts to settle. Pull your bar out, cut a small, thin wedge of wood right next to the kerf. Lift your bar up, letting the wedge of wood drop in. Tap it with your bar. Insert bar back into cut and continue out...

I find that an ax does most of the mushroom, but if you're trying to stack wedges and drive them fully, there is still a bit of mushroom left that interferes. I don't keep my ax sharp, intentionally. Saw chain is sharp, and easily leaves no mushroom.

If they are in a kerf, you can use your chainsaw, going from tip toward the butt, to shave off mushrooming.

Nice guy Dave explained that double tapers are good in second growth fir logging. Slender taper to start, more lift toward the end, when the tree is tipped, but not committed. Plastic cutting boards, cut to size, a la Stig, gives a flat surface for stacked spacers to accompany one wedge, more...