Search results for query: *

I almost added it to my video: what I do if I can't find an odd link as a starting point (which half the time I just miss it) I pick any drive link and file flat across the top of it, maybe even on both sides of a tooth. Just file a significant mark on a tie strap, and that shiny spot is your...

Notice the angle of the file I use in relation to every tooth. That's because this way the grooves on the file hit at an angle and cut the metal smoothly like a milling bit. The other way would make the file teeth hit straight on, and it doesn't cut very well or smoothly. The last one seemed...

You will get the hang of the depth gauges. I don't like the guide tool thing. For you, I wouldn't worry about the depth gauges except for every 3-5 filings, or 1 filing if the teeth got tore up by rocks. Otherwise you just get a feel for when you have to lean harder to get it to cut, and if it...

Good point on safety, I didn't know that about the pants. Kickback energy can be higher too with faster chain speed. The 8t in the link is a direct replacement for the stock 7t that comes on those, and will fit both the bigger Stihls and Husqvarnas. It will allow you to get more tensioning room...

It's legit, maybe not Stihl authorized, but it is just as durable as any Stihl chain. Great stuff, all I ever use for the most part. Actually the first Stihl chain I ever got was with a chinese Husqvarna 365 straight out of china. It stayed sharp through about 10 hickories while a Husqvarna...

And no gearbox or shaft joints to break. Root flares will be harder to cut since you are making a rip cut. I like using these on a 660: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Oregon-Rims-22273-3-8-8-Tooth-std-3-8-8-Chainsaw-Sprockets-Stihl-Husqvarna/112835103448...