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Find out what is right is alway's first step when you can't see what is wrong. Lines, scoring, coil gap, correct plug, settings on carb.... Test it so you know if it is tight or were it not. IF case and carb is tight and set correct, it should work. What settings are the needles on now? Is main...

It is a constant learning processes to work on saws. A seal is nothing to beat yourself about... Lots of things can and will go bad when working on seals. This is one of the more tricky stuff in a saw. Even with all knowledge and experience you can possibly have, there is still stuff that can...

I can't let the saws beat me, I get physically ill... They sit there on the bench grinning at me, saying "Ha, Sucker"... I beat them 999 times of 1000.... Out of pure spite!

If it were assembled wrong it would not surprice me at all. It is a bit tricky to get it right the first times. My money is the stuff outside seal rather than seal and crank.

Had a funny one today, a 357 that could not stop spinning the chain. It was assembled wrong at some point and the drum put preassure on the gear. This cased it to create a lot of heat. Heat, plastic and pressure made it change shape and get too close to seal... Replaced seal and gear. Put it...

Brian. You put grease on the seal. I think that is what Al is referring to. If it was in between lip and shoulder of seal it might have some effect, not sure if it is enough to make a difference... Perhaps a tiny bit of crap caught the grease as it dropped on the bench, but should not be too bad...

Nah... Don't give up now.. You need to figure out what happened. If you are suspecting crank is the bad guy, then have a look. It is not that hard and you can do without a indicator clock to see a crank bad enough to break a seal or oil pump. Something solid and case fixed. Turn and see...

You should replace both while you are at it... It is no trouble at all as you have saw in parts and all clean and ready to assemble. The minutes it takes to take wheel and change the seal is well spent! Learned this lesson long ago... The hard way... The expensive way...

If you have the saw suspended by the flywheel, and punch the crank with moderate force (It usually is just a tap), nothing can happen. If you don't have it suspended you can do all kinds of bad things. Making a puller is not hard. A bar and washers will do fine. Usually not much power needed if...

Brian. You need to know what you ask for when ordering online. Just kit is anybody's guess what it include. I alway's ask if it doesn't say. The saw look OK so I would do it right. Check if there is play in main bearings. Out with seals and clean crank case, crank and bearings. If that is OK...

If the oil pump gear got hot, so has the seal. It is easy to replace from outside. No need to split unless crank bearings, seal or crank is bad. When you pull it you can see bearing.

If it helps I think I have a coouple oilers I can take apart to show how it works and should look... I think I have one 372 in attic some were.... No E tech though...

OK, lets see here... I would have a look first to see gear and picup is correct and OK. If so put another adjustment screw in.... The pic is not clear enough to tell, but it looks like the caps are of and the idle screw is set a bit far in. I could be mistaken of this, but it looks like it...