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This struck me as well. Jed being gone is a heartache...I'm saddened still for his family, his friends, and all of us here.

I felt all-powerful!

It does a really nice job, if the operator is competent and careful.

Never, Butch. Closest thing would be site prep for reforestation planting using a tracked excavator type machine with a disc style mulching head on it. Not very close, really. And then only as a contract administrator. I ran the machine for about 15 minutes once, just for experience. Like...

I don't know. I don't try to cut low. :)

Brian and Stig have the right of it, Brock. The grain of most species tends to be more likely to have some twist or other uneven growth form down low near the root branchings. Higher up tends to be more straight grained. But there are no absolutes :). Anyway, uneven grain will often give...

Bump...this one had been revived several times, still a good one, covers a lot of ground.

This thread has enjoyed a pretty good run...revived a couple or three times, lots of good stuff has come under discussion. Way to go, 'Housers!

I third that, smart guy, this Mr. Beranek :D.

Point well made, Fiona.

We call that a "quarter cut" here, Bermy. But we don't take a full half with the first back cut section...more like 1/4 to 1/3...hence the name. This allows you to deal with some side lean by making the first back cut on the compression side without much risk of bar pinch or hinge tearout.

Oh, I know it's not really all that low of a stump, Stig...just have to get my teasing in whenever possible :D. Although actually, I'm most likely to make felling cuts on hazard trees in a fully upright posture, so they would usually come out a foot or more higher than that one...which is...

The too-darn-low stump did that to you, Stig :P. But you knew I would say that, most likely :lol:. Really, wasn't this hazard tree felling rather than logging for volume? If so, a better time to go with a higher stump in search of more uniform hinge wood, you will never find :).

First question: you misunderstand me, Jed. I'm not suggesting that there is any way to, as you put it, "shift the lean". Rather, by locating the hinge a little further back towards the tree's COB, you make it a little bit easier to tip it to the face because you don't have to move the top...

I don't know about all the time, but I can say for certain that it can be done. Not without effort, that's for sure.

You know, I was just doing a little playing with the numbers...if you have a tree 100 feet tall, leaning at 10 degrees, the top of the tree is going to be about 17 feet offset from the base. Does that seem right? That's a long way to move a top :).

Yeah...there's a thread around here where that came up, somewhere... :lol:

Alrighty, then. At 10 degrees, you have a battle, usually winable but no walk in the park.

Say, Stig...what do you think is about max degree of back lean that you can stand up with wedges and plates, as y'all do it? Getting back to Greg's initial question.

Nothing new under the sun :).