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I reckon tensioned bigger wood means more frequent binding...binding leads to attempts to get the saw unbound...which leads to twisting the saw in the kerf...which leads to throwing chains. Smaller wood under tension has the same thing going on, with the additional likelyhood that smaller wood...

Trip the strip from the compression side or the tension side, Deva? Must be tension, I think.

Oh hell, the critters don't care, and certainly don't vote. It's the tree huggers who can't stand the idea of the wilderness being sullied by the noise of that 26th year of the 20th century.

We posted at the same time, Butch...we are on the same page.

Here's my train of thought on it, Butch: the smaller wood is more flexible, and thus it is usually a bit easier to read binds because the wood will deflect to follow those loads. Also, the wood is lighter, so if you do get pinched, you stand a better chance of getting free. The main reason...

I have to say that neither method should be used to the exclusion of the other. I'm with Dave when he says you need to read the binds; that's your first step, and this gives you the information to base your plan of attack at each bucking point. If you just put saw to wood and go 'til the tree...