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I reduce and taper the core tail before burying, and only half way, then make a few short buries, dropping a strand each time.

Another method for sealing the ends of non melting ropes and cords.

Some thinner hitch cords to match the thinner spliced ropes.

Agree it’s a Slaice, that is the location they did the stitching, and it’s “skinny”.

Do you think it was a Slaice? I thought it was an attempt by someone to add some strength and security to a questionable splice.

I’m not sure, but I think I like the fancy stitch work in the first picture more!

The 9mm RIT, made from the Kevlar like, Twaron.

When they launched the program it was mentioned so anyone could do hitch cords without the expense of a sewing machine. With spliced cords, as long as not a double braid, the cover can be made a little baggy for more flexibility. Milking some of the slack towards the eyes gives more useable...

Are you in the spLIFE program, was wondering what became of their approved hitch cord splice?

Cheated on this one, replaced the twisted parallel strands core with a dyneema hollow braid.

Looks like a skinny splice, maybe Teufelberger’s Drenaline, or Cousin’s?

Those splices might not be done right, they are sent in by amateur splicers, not professionals. There is no “disturbance in the force” by putting a needle through rope, as long as it is a ball tipped, not chisel tip needle. The twine used will break before it adversely affects the splice. Not...

What does the rope manufacturer splicing instructions say about stitches?

I got good results by lock brummeling the cover and core together and burying them in the core, using the same bury lengths.

If using the class II, theoretically it would only have about half the break strength as the cover is only whipped to the side and not involved in the splice, and not the usual half. Lots of stitches might help, a few with tight whipping wouldn’t, the rope shrinks in diameter too much when loaded.

The way you’re using it, one locked brummel would be enough to trap the thimble. Not too many loop friction hitches, Prusik and the Klemheist, that you show, another is the shackle end coming from the top going through the whipped bight starting the wraps at the bottom, would be the Hedden Hitch.

Shouldn’t be any problems doing it that way, probably makes the eye four times the strength of the line itself.

Yes, that’s it, my first introduction to splicing.

It is weaker to open the rope to insert a tail than to pass it through itself. 5-7 locked brummels can be used with a short 2” bury. A lock brummel is only useful if a short bury is needed, like hitch cord, or no bury, like ultraslings. By themselves with no bury there is about a fifty...

The True Blue does have the thin rubber like shrink tube, but I’m in the process of burying them into the rope. Never tested them, another variation of tucking tested 119% of the ropes break strength. A tuck-bury I had tested only lost one and a half percent of it strength. Instead of pairing...