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Don't forget to give her a kiss before start, that help a great deal!

They all interact. Make sure lines and filters is clean and OK. Screws tight and all look well. Set the H and L on one turn out from LIGHTLY seated. Start her up and set L so she doesn't hesitate on throttle. Fine tune H so she slightly "four stroke" on WOT. Set the T so she is stable and chain...

A word of caution. 262 is a big limbing saw. Bucking with bigger bars tend to make them run hot. Most run 15-18" .325 here and still they get overloaded. I would not run bigger than 20" on mine and if I run 20" I promise to pay good attention to heat. Previous owner did not...

It should not pull on idle, not even with slacky chain on idle. If it do and sit on idle for a bit it will go got and stuff break.

Good to hear it looks ok. No blue heat marks or bad shapes on clutch wings? Willard. Be carefull. I have seen this on saws here a few times when it wasn't fishing line it was shaved plastic from oiler and its gear/housing. Also result of wiggling...

It is easy to hear the difference in low rpm. 50 or more up and down most can hear. High rpm's is more tricky...

He has Idle set at less than 3000rpm so it should not engage. Under 2200rpm they will not run right as ignition fail then. If spring is OK the shoes don't go out until closer to 3500rpm. Snip them a bit and you get another 1000... If bearing is gone it will rest on the shoes and they pull even...

Clutch should not engage until 3500. Idle is usually over 2500 and under 2800rpm, should be 2700. You likely have a worn clutch spring or drum bearing. Check for wear and see if it wiggles on crank.