Chuck and duck/ old school drum chipper adjustments

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  • #126
A cnd chipper is one of those things in life that have a constant safety reminder system. Get too comfortable using it and it will slap you around some :lol: Awesome score on the chipper, but i think a 2.5 L would be a bit small. Hunt down a Ford 4.9 L out of a truck or something if you want a gas. Many of cnds came with those stock.
 
The bandit were be great.

All chipping should be done with a face shield, IMO. I LOVE having two eyes. Visit and glasses.

I think CnDs repeatedly give lessons to people who don't learn well.

Hydraulic machines teach a lesson once!

Both can eat ropes. Which climbing and chipping simultaneously, I prefer to bag and carry my rope, or hang it somewhere, when they feed.

Rigging ropes are secure/ far out of work area, unless in use.

My climbing line went into the chipper right after a safety meeting about the chipping operation, and my rope not going in the chipper. ONCE!
 
Yeah that's the nice thing about owning the company you get to hand pick your fellow knuckle dragers ! This Bandit 90 will be a great starter. I like how narrow it is. It has a 37hp Wisconsin and I have a 2.5L Ford Lima ready for replacing it and doubling the power. After looking at the specs a 3.7v6 would be best same weight MORE power!
Now I need a mini ride on like you have. Recommendations? Screenshot_20200813-220620_Chrome.jpg
 
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  • #130
Hnmmm, didn't know they had that much power out of an engine that small! Mine has a 4 cylinder diesel, and I've seen others with the 300, so that's why i recommended it. I'm not familiar with the 2.5, but the 4.9 inline 6 is one of the best gas motors ever built, complete with timing gears rather than belts, and many other diesel like engine attributes. I've seen the abuse they can withstand, back in the day around here they used them to power mining pumps, ran at 3600 rpms for years, only ever adding oil, eventually they would blow up, and could ve rebuilt and back in service in no time.
 
It's all about torque multiplication. The early Vermeer 1250 ran ford 300 cu.in. inline 6 and would chip a 12" dia because the feed wheels control the rate of feed and with auto feed the speed giving the disc a chance to maintain its inertia and torque. CnDs rely solely on the drum speed and are limited by inertia loss due to friction because knife angle and speed is both the cutter and rate of feed. OK I'm outta breath. I can't stand trying to sound like I invented the darn things but I try 🙃
 
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  • #135
Anything lol. After i have one i can bitch about what i want differently, and that i should have bought blah blah lol
 
You need a mini. They are practically free if you have the work.
You’ll clear an extra $500/ month for the payment.

First storm you don’t have it, you’ll kick yourself. Trees come off houses much better, faster and easier.






Allows you to skip some crane rentals if it’s really about things being heavy, but already on the ground.
Cranes are expensive (unless you have the work that can’t be readily done otherwise.

Cranes are expensive ways to load smaller stuff that can be picked up by a loader.

People are a very expensive way to load things that a loader will load.
Swingdude lost a half a pinkie while loading logs with guys.

Or you could Just break your back.



Your body will do much better, and your family time can be much better.
 
I bought a Ramrod 900T in 2010. Bought another the next year. Bought the Gehl in 2012. Bought my Boxer in 2014 I think it was, and sold the Ramrods. One to Kevin and the other to a guy on Treebuzz. If I had my rathers, the boxer would be wheeled and not tracked, but that wasn't an option. I do like being able to retract the tracks to go through a 36" gate. That has been worth its weigh in gold a time or four.
 
I use the retractable undercarriage for moving between planting beds/ tight spaces as much or more than gates!
Wide width for heavy loads on slopes and better control while towing the chipper, trailers, camper (my gf’s rental camper...just barely moved it to a better spot. The retracted tracks helped for a spot.)
A big selling point. IMG_20200815_183227747.jpg IMG_20200815_160851077_HDR.jpg IMG_20200815_161547105.jpg


As long as we're on a tangent @T Collins
Sena intercoms also will be profitable, safety improving, teaching/ learning aiding, headache avoiding, communication that is in at times. Can be left 'off' or disconnected as situations dictate.
... No damage to camper or buildings, with the help in the Senas. Scared stuff...3-4" from the gutter, but through like butter.
 
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Why do you prefer wheel Scott? Seems like tracks would have the advantage everywhere but speed and cost.
 
Way smoother ride. Wheeled machines have higher travel speed (my experience). Wheeled machines ride right up and over bumps (or loading vis ramps) versus the pass-the-tipping-point roughness of the tracks. Less turf damage from wheels. Tracks do offer more traction...
 
The less turf damage surprises me. I have thought tracks would be better, if not for the grass itself, at least in avoiding ruts.
 
Not a mini but a tracked cherry picker I rent...don't slew on damp grass...rake, shovel, grass seed...but oh so maneuverable
 
Tracks are only an advantage in dirt. Wonderful for construction sites, terrible on lawns. How much golf course equipment do you see with tracks? I would never buy anything on tracks for residential tree work.
 
Back to the thread topic of chippers, I have an early model Morbark drum with a feed wheel. Been very happy with it but knives are a constant expense. I quit using sharpened knives early on because they simply do not chip as well, and I figured out why.

Consider a saw chain and the angle of the cutter to the raker. As you sharpen the cutter, it gets shorter and closer to the raker. So it takes a smaller bite until you lower the raker again. Now look at a drum on a chipper. The knives stick out a certain distance above the drum and cut against the anvil bar. The drum itself acts as your 'raker'. The brush goes in and hits the spinning drum, then the knives take a piece off. With sharpened knives, they are shorter so they do not stick up as high above the drum. No matter how sharp they are, they can only take a bite equal to their height above the drum. Running a drum chipper with sharpened knives is like running a chainsaw with the chain filed halfway back and not touching the rakers.

YMMV. This is just my experience with one chipper, my old Morbark 20/36.
 
Would it be possible to utilize shims to gain back the height? I’m not sure I’m visualizing what you’re getting at. The old drum chippers I ran 30 years ago had depth adjustment screws to set tooth height in relation to the anvil.
 
Possibly, but the brackets that hold the knives are bolted solidly into the drum. Shimming them would be a fair amount of effort and may change the load forces which could damage/crack the drum. Easier to just replace the knives 3-4 times per year at $250 per set.
 
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  • #149
I have no idea how your chipper worked, but with my chipmore cnd it has set screws to adjust the blade stickout easily, and the anvil is set at a predetermined distance. The secret sauce that i learned from this thread is that if you shim up the anvil on a cnd (and regap the blades obviously), it takes a smaller bite, which leads to slower more controlled feeding, giving the motor a chance to keep up with everything. After adjusting it this way, that is definitely true, and works wonderfully.
 
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