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Personal preferences do seem pretty big in saw building, as you say, Al. How many actual studies within carefully controlled specifics have been done on modified saws? Perhaps one could find more things along those lines when looking at motorcycles, and still it might require a lot of digging.

If you have the width there, I might be inclined to open up the transfer all the way to the base. I know some do, and some don't.

Lips porting? That accumulates to a pretty large opening.

You might have saved yourself some trouble by measuring with the gasket in place before adhering it with the sealant. The sealant will add no appreciable thickness or change of squish. If you get slightly under .020 you might still be ok, though it is less than what is normally recommended for...

That's a good point, Al, about the lack of hostile environment down there at the cylinder base. I was surprised how well the gasket goop holds up there, not needing replacement after a number of years. I guess that is the reason.

You could also shave down the cylinder base a tad. Most easily done on a lathe, but it wouldn't be so difficult to remove that minimal amount by sanding, but also having to keep the base square to the bore.

Carbon usually has very minimal effects on squish. You often don't find 0 without the base gasket, how thick is it?

The 036 on the 034 case is at .018 squish. It's the 'Leatherface' signature model.

With a Stihl 028, I simply took out the base gasket and used a sealant. It gave me a good squish. I always meant to get back and do a proper porting on it, but the higher compression made the saw lively enough as is. The torque seems to cover any loss in rpms, if there is some. I also...

Widening the windows and beveling from inside to out on the edges, should improve gas flow and lighten up the piston. It's surprising how much you can take off those, and they still hold together. Don't go wider than you want to and leave an open port when it should be closed.

Don't worry Blinky, that's just an excuse to go out there to get more beer.

Wondering if there might be another piston that you could swap for the stock one on the 029, to raise compression? It would undoubtedly require some machining to get the right squish.

Hell yes! Modded 029 against stock 372xp: <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FuOf5O-tOH4&hl=ja&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed...

Quick work Skwerl :)

I'd say yes on widening the intake to hope for some flow improvement, it can't hurt, even though the boot dimension is a given. Yes, widen on the bore side as well. Adjust the low speed screw to slightly rich, then to the correct setting after warm up. Remember that the high speed setting...

You have to get like sotc, where you get into a deep mode of concentration, lose all thought of time and place...find yourself in another dimension, called the modifier's zone.

Ideal! Did you bump up to premium gas?

Looks good, nice job Willie! Feels good to be empowered, doesn't it ;)

Dave beat me to the post about the DTI. Tachometers are a whole subject in themselves. Those ones from Baileys are cheap, but they don't take very fast readings. One with a memory for the highest rpm is real helpful, like DTI tech one that Amicks superstore sells. It's an excellent tach...

Sounds good on having a go on the 024. Small bore cylinders are harder to work on if you want to modify the transfers. You'll need a dremel tool with a right angle head on it. You guys who are starting to do mods should get a compression gauge, see what your saw is stock and what your gains...