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Especially in hard oak, which is what fried the nose the last time. I imagine a lot of heat gets generated, especially in a saw tuned to run at 13,500 revs.

I do a lot of bore cuts when doing crane aided removals. We have a system going at the stump that entails an initial bore cut. If it's a relatively small tree, I just use the limbing saw that has the cheapo laminated bar. That seems to be really hard on those sprocket noses, maybe a reason...

Just bringing this thread back to life..... I like using a bar with a narrow tip on a saw for limbing, it seems a bit faster and easier to manipulate in and around a limb crotch to get a close shave next to the trunk....also like the feel and balance of the small tip. One problem though, is...

Cutting bamboo groves is also a major pita, and hard on saws. You wouldn't think so by looking at it, but the wood is very hard and stringy, and the hollow middle allows easy binding. It usually collapses before you get it cut all the way through, and often when you get it cut, it shoots off...

Probably the cost factor, Jerry. Why are you so down on hardnose bars?

Does anyone still supply new chainsaws with hardnose bars?

My 2. I think the differences in performance, say in terms of getting the job done in a specific time, are over rated. Chain stretch will pretty much bottom out after a time, and hard nose bars generally are supposed to run a looser chain anyway. Stihl hard nose bars are excellent bars...