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Dog in let the saw do the work, let the tree hold the saw, be in the safest position always.

While backchaining the saw is somewhat trying to push itself towards you, especially if it encounters something like a nail/spike. Also it reduces the effectiveness of dogging in.

Once you go wrap....there's no going back. In the tree it's superior for all the same reasons it is on the ground. No backchaining and able to use the dogs properly no matter which side of the tree/cut you're on. You can always use the saw in the safest most efficient configuration no matter...

My point being Cory that when you switch hit as you put it so adeptly. Don't forget that when your left hand is on the trigger and right hand on the handlebar kickback is much more likely to be directed towards you then away from you. Because chainsaws are designed as a right handed tool...

And because I enjoy fanning the flames of controversy.......... I know it's regional but Willie must know and get a little red in the face every time he picks up a 1/2 wrap. Because.....well......in the pnw a 1/2 wrap is like a beginner saw, like what you'd give your child for their first...

I sold all removals that weren't getting ground as alap without cutting dirt. I've told it here before. But when people would get stupid about stump heights I'd tell them asking me to cut dirt with my saw would be the equivalent of asking a butcher to take his knives and run them across...

Somebody really needs to measure the difference in width between a 1/2 wrap and a 3/4 wrap? I ran my business for almost a decade with stumpgrinding as a service and never once considered running 1/2 wraps because I couldn't dpcut a stump low enough. Just my experience with it.

Cory if you are doing this by switching hands. Remember every time you run a saw left handed it is not how the saw was designed. I am left handed and it's great to be ambidextrous, but as soon as you cut left hand on trigger you are nine times out of ten putting yourself in a worse position...