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I'm not an old timer, but I use the Pferd tool also. Technically, mine's Oregon branded, but it's clearly made by Pferd.

Translation weirdness. He wants to know the best setup for ripping. IMO, bar doesn't matter. For chain, I use regular crosscut chain, but slowly bring the top plate in to about 5° as I regularly sharpen it. For noodling(cutting with the grain, and pulling very long strips of wood/chips), you...

Baileys says 2.1#, but online specs regarding weight are suspect ime. edit: Found a Sugihara catalog that lists it at 2.36#, but that's .063 gauge

Yea, The ES is a solid milled bar with a replaceable tip. It's a "yellow" bar with a broad nose. The light version is the same thing, but has pockets milled out and filled with epoxy to save weight. The E is laminated, and considered a "green" bar with a smaller nose.

Once a chain gets thrown, it can booger up the drivelinks, and it'll want to throw more. A brand new chain would be a good test.

By "bottom around the sprocket", do you mean the nose end or the tail at the rim? The nose would be a little more surprising to me assuming it all looks good, but it could possibly be fixed with a new tip. edit: lay the bar on a piece of glass to check for bends/twists.

Last reel I bought from the dealer was $340. I think that's very reasonable. I wouldn't really consider anything but a Stihl bar on my Stihl saws. Maybe if I had small Stihls, I'd consider swapping an E for a Sugi or something, but imo, the ES(lights) are unmatched for the price.

Just need a good file, and it'll be the last bar you'll ever need.

How much is expensive? Baileys has a Sugi for $95. Their WoodlandPro brand(Taiwanese) with a replaceable sprocket is $60 without a chain, or $70 with a Carlton chain(my suggestion). I've never used these bars on a big saw, but I love them on my small saws. edit: The search I made...