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I don’t measure raker to tooth individually. Usually just go by feel. It seems like, on longer bars, it may not be the way to go. At least not at this point. Probably have to set the raker depth per tooth or at least per side.

I made a jig where I could run my belt sander on its side. It has a small table in front of the belt. It may be perfect to bring the rails to the same length again.

@huskihl I’m sure the belt sander makes quick work of it Good ideas. Use 60-80 grit?

Trains, the cause was the bowed bar. Chain is good. Bar has been thoroughly dressed. The bow was causing it to bind in the cut. That’s why the last 8” cut so well but when I sunk my dogs in it wouldn’t cut. The question is, how the heck did that happen. I don’t remember any sort of incident that...

I set the closure depth at the sprocket where it is true to tolerances.

It definitely closes the rails. Proven by the micrometer

Bar closer. If the rails are out of spec with the sprocket or tail, I “close” them with this tool. Who cares if it’s a shorter bar but I do like to get more mileage out of the larger ones. Bars are now more expensive than ever though. I don’t remember who makes this tool, unfortunately...

All good except minor shrooming. Did find a very slight bow when placed on level surface. That could be the issue

I put a grinder sharpened chain on a well used 20” bar. The saw cut straight and properly of the last 10” of bar was used. If the saw was dogged in, it would cut crooked IF I could get it to cut. It really didn’t want to do anything. I’m assuming the bar needs dressing or replacing?