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Awesome. Probably gonna order the stihl one as long as I keep finding saws to work on. My parts come in Thursday. It’s exciting 😁

For some reason it didn’t load the link, or I copied it and failed to paste it lol 😂 Round 2: https://www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/pj91042.htm I assume that’s the cheap china one?

Awesome thanks trains! On the seal pullers is this a good set or would you recommend something different for the pullers? I like your methods and will use them on my current saws. May just purchase the tool for it if I keep working on them. Everything comes in Thursday and I’m gonna be able to...

I found the case tools from Mattyo. Definitely seems like a handy kit. I do hope and plan on being able to get good at this where I can buy and fix up old saws in the area. My area doesn’t really have any skilled/known chainsaw techs and I would like to be that guy. So far my only projects are...

Awesome thanks trains! I didn’t have any of them yet. I did just get approved as a member with ope a couple days ago. Been taking it all in before I introduced myself there. I have new caber rings for both saws coming in and enough parts and tools to test them if not get them running. As I was...

Discover this on the topic of gasket deletes:

Yeah. Haven’t replaced head on a diesel to know if some manufacturers request a permatex product. My reason for asking it because some guys on YouTube will remove the gasket and use a permatex product in place of it. Making a smaller gap means a higher compression. My reason for asking was if...

I know for sure there are some high temperature options. Never paid much mind to pressure. But when I put the head back on the engine of my Dodge truck I was instructed to use a gasket maker compound has an extra layer to the original gasket. So I guess they can handle that kind of pressure

They would use a permatex/right stuff gasket making sealer. I’ve used it in automotive applications growing up in my dads shop and works great. Seen it a few times just researching this stuff but that doesn’t mean it’s reliable or worth it. Just curious

I ordered a cheap recoil just to do compression tests and a mityvac to do the vacuum and pressure tests. I’ve heard about people doing gasket deletes to increase compression. Any caution/advice on that?

Gotcha. Why are some known good numbers for a compression test on these saws?

In the case of scoring get a new big bore kit. Any way of testing the crank and bearings

Yeah I’m thinking I’ll buy one new carb to start with. Hopefully the one on the 440 is good and the new one will go on the 460 if it works

I’m gonna finish tearing them apart soon and see what else I can find. Pretty sure the 460 is gonna need a new carb. Or are they easy to rebuild?

I’m gonna order a basis of standard parts for these saws soon. Luckily both saws have ALOT of interchangeable parts so it will be nice to buy a collection of new stuff to swap back and forth and test both saws

Oh wait 🤦‍♂️ This it my bad. I’m so used to 4 stroke motors I’m thinking the piston moves in the block. Being a two stroke it moves in the cylinder head. Sorry guys still getting used to this two stroke mechanics. Sounds like the 440 is low on compression then cause it turned way too easy for a...

On the 460: the carburetor is probably a huge issue. The choke valve was stuck in the closed position, had to move it with a screwdriver to get it to start moving and it looked filthy. Piston wouldn’t turn by hand at all. Had to put a wrench on the flywheel to get it turning. Once it turned a...

So you don’t have to do anything to the block when putting a bigger piston in it? Is it one of those things where the piston is larger and the rings have a thinner diameter so it still fits in the stock housing?

So I did a small tear down on each saw after work today just wanting to get a better idea on what I needed and here’s what I found: MS440: atleast looking in to the carb, it looked beautiful and clean. Exhaust didn’t have any excess carbon build up and was clean overall. Cylinder looked good to...

What is the preferred method for boring out the block for the larger piston?