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You are using it commercially. It is not a private citizen's trailer when its being used commercially, as best as I can understand from my Commercial Auto insurance. The commercial auto for your truck may cover any trailer towed.

i think GL

You need commercial auto insurance.

cones, first-aid kits on the ground. Do you have the Working Climber video series?

FIRE EXTINGUISHER, TOO!! A Maasdam Continuous Rope Puller is really good portable power. http://www.amazon.com/Maasdam-PowR-Pull-Capacitty-Puller/dp/B00099FFOI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459211496&sr=8-1&keywords=maasdam+rope

I'd buy 1/2" stable braid, a http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=235&item=14576 1/2" block, and a small port-a-wrap . A Treestuff AFB http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=1922&item=15634 would be nice, too. Spend the extra money saved on the impact block...

I used my machete just a couple days ago. A good tool for our invasive as snot Himalayan blackberries. Canes get bigger than an 1-1.25". Thorns are big, too...too big. Fuggers.

I would say that a new sawyer is the most at risk.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DlIZvCXbXBg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> You basically get a 2:1 out of the wrap around the load. If you can remove your side wall (I have wood stakes and sides on my flatbed trailer. I can slip the walls off. I...

Funny. I don't think its dangerous at all. I always feel like I have wood or steel side boards, or 12" of slashed up brush between me, at the very least. I keep the bar relatively horizontal, and close to the brush, more or less with the powerhead weight also on the brush. Levi, what are you...

Fuel reduction projects in the forest require you to slash down the burn piles. There is a skill involved in building a good burn pile, frequently burnt in snow-- easy to light, has heat reaching the right fuel, in the right density, easy to tend. I don't know much about it, never having tended...

I've never had a kickback doing this (I use good technique, too). Binding is the bigger part. Longer limbs on top hold the load down to the dump spot. If you set up ropes below the brush, sideways, with extra rope coming out the side, then tie a running bowline on top, the anchor and drive...

The trick to me is keep all big stuff for the top. Don't stand on any uncut brush. I start at the back of the trailer, doing a swipe or two, then climb in, always cutting stuff free before standing on it. This will keep binding to a minimum. Be sure your chain is properly tightened, and...

Some call that "burning it in". Back into the groove.

4th time is a charm.

Really, I'd buy rigging rings over a block, unless you expect to be lifting or redirecting the rope for pulling hard back leaners. You will need a lowering device/ portawrap with the block, and likely with the rings.

Your rope should be the weak link. The block sling should be expected to have twice the force as the rope. A smaller block sling is needed to fit the block, 1/2" or 9/16". edit, as someone posts further down, 5/8" is spec'ed. Its right on the TreeStuff page, below the picture.

F8 is over-rated. I haven't tied in with a F8 in 15 years. Its just the newbie-knot. I use a bowline-retraced, tail tucked like a Yosemite-finish. Never-ever hard to untie.

Climbing skills, not harness user skills. Balance, self-confidence, strength, confidence in safety gear, learning to use the least possible energy, etc.

Rock climbing, or gym climbing WILL make you a better tree climber!!!