Search results for query: *

It is impressive how much we have been taught to cut rope into-the-bind. Double it over and keep cutting the compression fibers by pushing a knife against the bight. Works on 'normal' sized stuff, ok (not tree-work sized ropes).

If you don't gut the hinge, as you may or may not with a full tree, and you have it on the run, wedging it over, but there is too much hinge bending to overcome gravity and wedge-power, you can "tickle the hinge" with the lower corner of the bar, nipping out the center of the hinge from the...

Find a tree you can lose to the side... Push to near failure or failure... Fine tune where "the line" is.

FWIW, I"ll undercut most any tree I can, rather than pull (not maples and alders known for killer barberchairs). 10% is the outside of the typical range for a whole tree. Gutting the hinge saves a lot of pulling power, as you're not bending the middle fibers. Sounds like Stig guts ash as...

Suppose you have a 10,000 pound back-leaner spar, leaning 20 degrees back... You aren't lifting or catching a big load, with a high peak-impact, you're applying a pretty steady load, hopefully. 4-low should be somewhat steady. The ground is bearing most of the load. I don't know the math, but...

3/4" means confidence in your rope, hardware, and tree. Kyle, idk, but unless you're using a thick hinge "to be sure", I wonder if that isn't overkill. Spars mostly load the stump.

Most people who need 3/4" don't ask for cutting tips. Sometimes, someone new thinks bigger is better, especially if snubbing stuff off, which can break a tree.

Tape it tight. Razor knife straight through the tape. Torch on the ends. Stuff you already have around. Welcome. Why 3/4"? Almost nobody needs 3/4".