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It would be interesting to compare max temps at different rpms all at full throttle to see if the load affects temperature. Generally, higher in cut rpm should keep the engine cooler.

I like to stop a few times during a stump cut. I saw a video of a 661 with a temp sensor on it, and the cylinder would go from around 175F at idle to nearly 450F in only 40 seconds of cutting, and it was still climbing.

In that case, buy 2 Echos on sale for every 1 Stihl you would have bought, so you can have a spare saw ready to go.

I buy my parts from Internet.

MopArmyGuy :lol:

I'd go with a 7 or 8 to keep it on the cool side, especially if you get the 500 modified. I run #8 plugs, which can be a bit slow to warm up, but are definitely needed when run hard.

Supposedly the dealer can plug it into his computer and tell you the hours and maybe even the number of rope pulls.

Sounds about right. I think 100 hours is longer than most people think. I figure that is every 2 years up to twice per year for the average arborist. I wouldn't change it, though. I would just inspect it, adjust the gap if needed, and clean it.

Not relatively hot, but still hot. I have seen gas boil many times when running in 100deg F heat. A 015 is terrible about it having a metal gas tank attached to the engine, but I can't remember if it ever vapor locked the lines. I guess it also depends on the carb design. In theory vapor should...

I think it just helps with hot starts. I don't know if the primer bulb on other saws purges fuel line vapor. I don't think so. They made it look like engine heat might affect the fuel system on that saw more than others, but I don't know.

Heat could have vapor locked the 500i I test ran. This video shows heat causing vapor lock and the need to purge it.

He's gotta hear the trees talking to him, which could be a matter of life and death with widow makers and such. I plan on experimenting with quiet porting to find the difficult way of more power & less noise. If one has always protected their hearing like I have, you can get sensitive hearing...

I tried running one after someone else, and it took like 20 pulls until I hit the primer a few times. I didn't think it needed priming after having run, but it can help.

I would assume squishy, like you'll max out the anti vibe travel easily before transferring much force to the bar. I've had a few like that. A dull chain seemingly amplifies the effect because it isn't as responsive to changes in pressure. Husqvarna ranchers and the Stihl equivalent I think can...

Seems like an insult instead of a prize since it sits there taunting you that you don't have the real deal stihl 500i.

Husqvarna has had plenty of pro auto tune lemons... or oranges. They seem to be making a comeback though.

There were 661 M-tronic lemons when they first came out. I experienced it second hand as I watched.

At least in theory

Send a couple my way, I'll test them for ya