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I saw the thick collared one on a 461, so it's on those newer large saws. So, anyway, I did the whole repair with a hand drill which went worse than I had hoped, but it actually turned out very well. I used a step drill to help drill a straight hole, slightly boring a shallow hole just larger...

Got it fixed. I forgot how powerful it is. It blew through a slightly rotten 40"x28" maple stump today pretty quickly with 28" square skip chain and 8t sprocket.

I took a look at the oiler, it doesn't look easy to mod :( I like the Husqvarna oilers with just a flat ended shaft that can more easily be ground on, plus disassembly is easier.

The 661 never gets much use anyway, but I finally got around to working on it and I have another question. Do these bar studs look correct? It's hard for me to find pictures online, but I get the feeling they should both have the thick/wide middle. On the left is the rear one that stripped...

I shouldn't have to worry about them even coming loose. When it came loose on a new 150 I almost couldn't tension the chain or take it apart. And then they don't include a place to grab the stud with a wrench to tighten it.

Or the fact that Stihl continues to use threaded studs that can strip.

I read something like that. I'll look into it more

Yea, I kept thinking I should thread lock it. Oh well. It used to not get used for several months because the tensioner was broken. I fixed that a month ago when I found out we had a 661.

A bar stud on the 661 that's always been a problem backing out when loosening the bar nut finally stripped the case hole today. Is there a bigger compatible stud I could tap for and use such as an 880 stud? Should I clean the hole and JB Weld it back in? Helicoil? Throw it away and buy a...