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20w50 oil is an experiment to see if it helps worn out low compression engines run better. It's what I use as bar oil usually, so it was readily available.

The thing that sucks is that the 391 cylinder is way different than the 390 and there are no aftermarket cylinders. The 311 cylinder might fit at a 2mm loss in bore, but it also isn't available in aftermarket parts. Both 311 and 391 cylinder are only available from Bailey's from what I could...

That was a 391 piston for those who overlooked the words in the post. The exhaust side was the worst, but about 80% of the piston was scored half as bad possibly from alignment changing with wear or the lack of oil. And I tried running it too on something like 32:1 or more 20w50 oil and that...

I need to buy some new tools. The broken T25 now T27 bit is chipped, but it has not broken again yet, and I've tried. I'm surprised I didn't even break the screw driver. I ended up using a stripped screw remover and corded drill to get the engine bolts out and found they are some kind of lock...

It appears in good condition. The purpose of the plug is to lock the rubber in place. Also the rubber is shaped to push in easier than pull out with a rounded end and a straight cornered inner lip. The caps hold the rubber expanded making it likely impossible to pull out the rubber with the cap...

When I re-read what you said I see I missed your misunderstanding. Both sides have a plug, the cylinder side plug is the problem. Today the Stihl dealer guy I talked to couldn't remember immediately how it was done, but agreed the cylinder probably has to come out, $85 an hour. Then I got the...

What screw? I couldn't get some of the engine bolts undone, so I might be about done with this saw anyway. I'll likely break a lot of t25 bits trying to undo them.

Stihl saws have a plastic cap that locks in the rubber buffer, so the cap has to be pulled to remove the rest of the rubber, and to let the new one in. They can be hard to get in from one side only even without the cap in the way.

PICTURES :(

The guy I work with uses them as his climbing saw, they are cheap and light. Hopefully someone here has taken one apart before. All I know for sure is that the engine has to come out unless I'm really missing some other option. It's like on an MS290 where to fix the orange cover's buffer you...

I need to fix the anti vibe buffer on a 170 that is right beside the cylinder. It tore in half a couple years ago, I wasn't there, so I don't know how it happened. Anyway it runs pretty well for having sat for 2 years with dead stink bugs in the open oil tank. Am I going to have to take the...