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cheers @lxskllr all these terms...bloody hell I love it

I mean loading a biner across major axis ( the rope ) the pressure on the side against the trunk, is that side loading?

I believed that this stuff is way to strong... A scottish climber that works with us sometimes was using a steel carabiner for that purpose and told me aloys were not reliable? On major axis...Could you really bend a climbing biner with climbers weight?Even on rescue scenario with 2 people?

Hi, using a ring in the alpine butterfly knot for locking SRT anchor has the same side loading effect as with carabiners?