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The back and forth movement in the last vid (before closing the shin strap) helps to take out the play in the lower strap by setting the shank in the right place. I easily win one hole with an already tightened strap. It isn't overly tight, just right, but doesn't come loose during the climbing...

Sorry, but your setting with the portawrap doesn't give you one bit of a mechanical advantage. Even worse, you loose some of your traction power by the friction in the blocks and in the rope. The two blocks are both tied to a fixed point. Therefor, they can't have a movement relatively to each...

I do that each time I wear my spurs, except it doesn't float at all. I put first the Pantin at my ankle as usual, tight. Then, I slide the spur's stem under the front of the Pantin. My spurs are made with flat stock steal, so they are less bulky than the aluminum molded ones. It works well. The...

It had never worked for me. The biggest length that I climbed like that is about 5 feet ! If you want some help to ascent your rope easier, try the Pantin on your ankle, or two Pantin if you climb on the double line. Much more easier for the legs, knees and feet than the foot lock, and very...

I seldom threw my rope in the tree because I' m bad at this game. I prefer by (very) far my 15 feet long telescopic pole. A S shaped hook allows me to put my rope and retrieve it over me or side way. It's a very useful tool and an essential part on my saddle. It saves me a great amount of time...

In the description, he says that the tree was leaning hard over the house. So the pull line is sideway, as it seems for me on the vid, with not so m1uch force. The main motor is only the top's weight, maximised by the heavy lean. I guess that he made just an undercut instead of a face cut, then...