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Actually I didn't think it was pulling chips all that well even in the birch. I just thought it was snappy [quick acceleration] helped along by it's "rev boost" option for limbing. This is a small mount b/c saw like the 346 so stick with the shorter bars. A limbing demo with the 6 point limbing...

The 262XP power/weight ratio can't be compared to a 560XP, two different birds. Like I said about the 346XP having "one" of the best P/W ratio, the Stihl MS200T holds the title.

262XP first Husqvarna with air injection around 1990. When I worked for Stihl in 1989 we played with a 262xp, big development for saws at the time. A 346XP NE is what it is ..a 50cc saw, probably one of the best power/weight saws out there. My 372 has a non rev limit module, mild muffler mod...

Patrick if I find something I'll let you know. I did a major carb service, fuel filter change , but still no help. I'm thinking primer bulb leak around the mess of lines it has. Magnus thanks for the 560 video. With a 14-16"b/c that little saw will easily replace my 346, very snappy powerband...

Thats what I heard too.Alot like a 357. The 560 should be a good running saw with its autotune technology. I have a couple of 576XP AutoTunes that I only keep for my once a year chainsaw races in Feb. and their a very nice smooth running saw and cut like a 80cc

Pigwot, going back to your 346 thats giving you problems. I got a 346 with only about 40 tanks through it. Thing has been sitting on the shop floor since last fall. Its got that boggy lean condition between idle and WOT. Just haven't had time to tear it apart to find the leak or whatever. A mass...

On the higher elevations on the PNW some of the saw competitions I used to go to were well above sea level , and I remember having to have to lean my saw's carb to get that "sweet spot" at WOT. Then the next competition at sea level I had to richen her up.

Damage can be done from an overich condition where the engine overheats from too much fuel mix. Varnish and gum builds up on the sides and top of piston, also in and around the ring area causing ring sticking.

a "slight richer" setting can go " extreme rich" to some.

Yes like I said in my last post ,either way too rich or too lean the saw 's engine will overheat especially under heavy cutting.

either way too rich or lean the 2 stroke engine is not running to effiency causing overheating. 4 stroke engines which I'm no expert on were used as an example, may run differently.

I read a few comments here that by richening up a saws carb will make the saw run cooler , which in fact can cause overheating.

Yes the old 266's with the solid mounted carb to the cylinder with engine heat transfering to the carb through the 2 cylinder studs was a problem. Also the vibration would self turn out the H & L screws also. But for loggers in the cold climates the 266s ran perfect. You just had to carry a carb...