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I haven't tried full 1/2" rope yet but 11.5mm is a tight squeeze so I would guess larger would be a struggle. I don't climb on 1/2" rope any more but I have some Arbor-Master BRW that I use for rigging. I'll see if it fits. Dave

Stephen, yes, you just push down on that little tooth. A fingernail works great but I can do it with my climbing gloves on also. Once released the pin will again catch on the outer plate and not fall out. You then slip the rope past it and click it closed. After you get the hang of it it works...

Thanks, Stig. As proud as I am of the traditional doubled rope systems that have allowed me to accomplish anything and everything I have needed to do in my climbing career, when I handle and use the things that are now available, all I can think is, shit I sure could have put this to better...

Tree stuff. http://www.treestuff.com/store/products.asp?category_id=161 Dave

Greg, I like the smaller slic-pin better.(sorry) The RW is big and bulky enough without making it more so. The little locking catch is large enough to prevent the pin from falling out while you are setting the rope. But I do know that some people really like the larger pin so you should be fine...

5/8" nylon web, quadrupled and handsewn. It needs to be stiff because of the metal-on-metal, the RW cannot be allowed to flop about as it may adversely affect the Unicender. The stiff tether gives this combo great control and a very subtle and supple feel. The other nice thing about the...

Absolutely, Burnham. Dave

SRT work positioning, as a system, absolutely does not require a ground or based-tied rope. It is merely an option. If you are working in a situation where it will not benefit you, there are many other ways to tie off. Dave

Reddog, you got it right. :) Dave

Tucker, How much simpler do you go? I have literally removed hundreds of trees with nothing more than a flip line, spurs and a chainsaw. I could put them on the ground fast. This was SOP in the time period in which I started working. We rarely set a high tie in on a removal prior to spurring...

Burnham, I have recently been playing around with the Rope Wrench/Unicender combination. As you know, I am a hardcore mechanical hitch convert. I have no intention of going back to rope hitches. However, I got the RW because I wanted to learn more about it. I don't like talking or discussing...

This may take awhile, but I will try to address everyone's comments. Butch, I have a flip line and a climbing line choked to the tree. In your picture, you have a flip line, and I presume, your doubled rope system choked around the tree. If you take away my friction control device, which...

Yup. Fast and easy. In this picture I am tied in with a mid-line Alpine Butterfly because I switched over from a base tie while I was at the top. Normally I would just use a choked running Bowline with a yosemite finish. Dave

Tucker, this is a link to a thread on UK site. Post #6 is by Reg Coates. I don't know if you are familiar with who he is, but he has a good rep as a high production, contract climber, now working in BC. Dave http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/climbers-talk/36682-rope-wrench-feedback.html

So, how many of you hardcore old timers are proficient enough at some other type of climbing, like SRT work positioning, to judge whether or not it is worth the cost and effort to learn? Dave

If you are looking for something new, I would highly recommend an SRT work positioning system. The Rope Wrench will allow you to sample this with a very small investment and a high probability of success. Dave