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Douglas fir can often be that way too; the first couple of rounds off the stump often feature intwined stringy fibers. This is a good reason to make the felling cuts a few feet above the ground, to get a more consistent reaction across the whole hinge, when really accurate lays are called for.

We all burn the best of what we have access to. No reason y'all would burn a softwood, except maybe for kindling. If there is a limb remnant within even thin wedges, you are very likely to fail splitting across the radius. Chainsaw ripping time :).

The above part I bolded, from @Dave Shepard. One answer is if you are splitting any western species of conifer that I'm familiar with. Rounds from these trees generally must be split on radius lines...there is not much give when you try to go any other way at them. Once rounds are reduced to...

Exactly.

Braveheart!

One thing I learned from the USFS axe book One Moving Part that @stikine put before us is that axes in general do not have hardened polls, so driving steel with them will always mushroom the poll. The exception is a true rafting axe, which was designed to drive spikes and staples for making up...

Also, for a true wedge driving axe, you really want a straight handle, like a rafting axe has. That yellow one might do. Re the unloved axe...with a cracked eye, then that one is for the recycle bin.

John, that one on the far right could use a little love :D.

Here are my falling axes. The short one was Gerry Beraneks before I got lucky :). A 5-pound Stroax. The longer one is what I carried for nearly 30 years working for the USFS. Also a 5-pound head. I don't know the brand of that one...bought it at the local logging supply shop back in the...