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Oh BTW the Mag will idle but very rich .The work on the upper transfers doesn't kick in until at speed then it really boogies .It 's just the stuff you get when you change the port scheming on a saw .Just don't make a practice of letting them idle too much .:)

Yes it's a combination of both . Both my 038's are souped,Mag and AV and both are baffleless .Both have duel port,one factory,one I did .I think the outlet is around 80 percent ex port size .The Av runs a nice brown plug,the Mag a tad rich but it spins over at 14,600 rpm . I think the problem...

Those old horizontal cylindered saws with a side exhaust would "wake up " if you debaffled them .They got loud enough to raise the dead when you did so though . I installed a better muffler on my old Mac 650 geardrive that was running open exhaust.The damned thing doesn't like it . It prefers...

You can completely gut them if you want .They might idle a tad rich and bog on accelleration though .They can get a little fussy about the carb settings but that's just something you have to deal with .More times than not it's merely a tweek an eighth of a turn or less on the screw . Idling has...

You can do a lot by just reworking a muffler .To make it run it has to breathe .To breathe it has to get out before it gets in .Seems back assward but that's just the way it works .

Alright already ,I gotsta get a better camera .:/:

I've seen modded ones tick it over at close to 15 thou . No sense tuning one to run some speed like a model airplane engine when it likely will be 10-11 thou if that in the wood .

Forget the tach .Set it so it cackles or 4 strokes just slightly .When it gets maybe 1/4 the way or less though a 15" round it leans out when it needs the power . After you run maybe a few tanks lean it some more until it gets maybe 2 inchs into the cut then leans out and powers up . After...

Good trick if you could it .:roll: Unfortunately most chainsaws have plated cylinders using a hard chrome or hard nickle lining .As such to rebore them to a larger size would entail both replating the cylinder plus obtaining an over sized piston of which for all intents is non existant unless...

Thanks for bringing that up,something I forgot to say . Something I do that some may or may not do .Prior to final assembley on a cylinder that has been worked over I slide he piston minus the rings into it and move it up and down to check for obstructions if any . It might not be a back idea...

Just oil the piston and cylinder good before you slip it back on .You don't have to mix a bunch of thick oil ratio fuel or anything .You might want to adjust the carb just a tad rich for a few tank fulls then lean it out and run it like you stole it . Now when I said a little rich I didn't mean...

Get some fine grit paper like 600 and use kerosine. plenty of it .Clean all around the chamfers on the ports to make sure all that tramp aluminum is removed . It looks like some residue on the bottom of the intake .As long as it's fairly smooth below the ports you should be okay . Above the...

A thought about screwed up pistons .Sometimes you can save them if they aren't too badly scored up.This one is past that stage unfortunately . I just got in a Husky 281 that is just starting to show signs of pulling aluminum that I believe I can save .Usually they get too cooked before they get...

The piston is definately toast .The good news is an aftermarket piston is fairly inexpensive .