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I haven't seen many quite old saws that had bulbs, but one very old Kioritz belonging to a neighbor that needed the bulb replaced, the rubber seemed to be quite thick. He might have gotten twenty years or more out of that bulb, I think it was still the original. New ones now seem a bit...

Seems to be the new trend, having the bulbs. A pro user saw can have them too for sure. If you don't use the bulb, the starting is encumbered on the ones I've used. A different carb arrangement is my guess. I think my impression is that with the bulbs they do start a tad faster, but it isn't...

Not believing that it couldn't be done, I tried to tweak a clamshell, the asian version Husky 333. Messed around with the porting and basically ruined the saw. :dontknow:

The oil pump shaft will also break on those. Might be a good idea to replace it if you are tearing it down. One thing that is a little surprising on those saws is that there doesn't appear to be any type of gasket between the two halves of the crankcase, just four bolts that hold the metal...

Also, if you don't have the bar lined up over the tension nub correctly, it can rack it and the chain won't move. The proper bar for the saw would be something to check.

Usually when a chain doesn't move after tightening the side cover, there is something misaligned with the chain on the sprocket. Chain brake fully disengaged?

I recall looking at the 333 pump and asking myself how it worked, being confused, then noticing the angle that you speak of on the end. Then it made sense what the spring on the shaft ends purpose was. I dunno, they might have changed it for the 335, but I'd bet that yours has the angle too.

I might be misreading your post, Al, but that Husky shaft also reciprocates, the cam shape at the end rotating against the little rounded flow adjuster knob makes it go back and forth. That is how the flow gets adjusted, hitting at different areas of the cam gives more or less back and forth...

Neat trick pumping the kerosene through. I'm assuming that you don't need the scan now, saves me the trouble, though I did try and clean the grease smudges off the page today. There are only four parts to the oil pump, excluding the worm gear and the oil flow adjuster parts for minimum to...

While you have the pump exposed, try giving it a kerosene bath around the spring area and blowing it out. Maybe there is some crud in there that can get removed. Are you seeing any oil coming out around the base of the saw, leaving some when you set it down? The oil hose may have just come off...

Yep, that is the same set-up as on the Asian distributed 333. The early models were really susceptible to the pump malfunctioning, I would have thought that they took care of that. There is also a spring and some small washers that go on the shaft, good to replace those as well. I've repaired...

First have a look at the worm gear under the clutch, make sure it isn't damaged. That would be a simple fix. Does the pump gear move? There is a spring in there that can break. After taking off the clutch and worm gear, you can see the pump but can't work on it, a frustrating deal...

If that saw is along the same principles as it's predecessor, the 333 that was sold here, and it looks like it might be, you have to disassemble the entire saw and pull out the cylinder and crankcase assembly from the plastic case. Removing the carb, flywheel, clutch, and muffler, is required...