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They've been around for ever in certain applications .The old portable boat motor remote tanks had them but they were tank mounted .Same deal ,it just primed the carb .

On most saws from a long sit and a cold start it takes about 6-8 tugs to get the gas sucked up into the diaphragm fuel chamber .Saws sometimes being fickle as teenage prom queens could be more or less .This no doubt has caused the use of primer buttons . I have some that even after three...

The problem as I see it with a clamshell is there is no practicle way to increase the compression. There for any alteration of the opening of the exhaust or transfer ports would be detrimental . I did have some luck working on the widths of both the intake and exhaust of an open transfer port...

It's kinda like a hobby me tweeking some more power out of saws which is merely for the challange .I've had an idea to fiddle with the little Huskies just never found the time . If I recall correctly somebody on the left coast had a souped little Huskie top handle done by Ed Heard that ran...

The little rascals seem to cut okay they just have oiler issues . I like the balance on them ,don't like plug wire that gets banged around eventually baring the plug end to shock the chit out of you .Nor the muffler that they always loose the guard to fry your leg,arm .

Yeah you have to field strip them .Like I said before failure is normally a 7 or 8 dollar shaft or a 4 dollar worm gear but if a shop did it you have a hundred dollar repair bill . Speaking of which I've got three in the shed the tree trimmers got frustrated with that I've never done a thing...

Oh you folks are just used to modern saws .Most of the oldies were in the covers .

Well I could be wrong but as I remember that shaft was not cut at an angle which in fact would allow it to have that pumping action as it rotated against the bumper screw . I was under the impression that what was happening is that the adjustment would effectively change the amount of shaft...

It's an amazement to me that this type oil pump works at all . Pretty simple, just a shaft with a flat spot .Stihl's got a leg up on this type though as the shaft in addition to rotating also recipricates .A fact I only recently within the last year or so was even aware of .

Glad that hillbilly fix worked .That's a lot better than peeling that little rascal down to the bones just to fix the danged pump . Now on the other hand you missed a great chance to test your patience working on micro saws .If you can keep your cool working on those little bastages you can...

Well rain in Florida but snow here in the frozen north country .Territorial thing ,precipitation .

Idea ! I have no clue if this would work as it just came to me out of the blue . If you could snag enough of the oil pick up hose to get a pump oil can on it it might be possible to kind of force feed some kerosine though the pump to flush it out if it's plugged with something . If that works...

Because it's a clam shell they really isn't much you can do with it as far as mods . Maybe some improvements could be done on the bottom exit exhaust . I have three but as of yet I've not taken the time to try anything to enhance them .Too many irons in the fire so to speak .

I think the pump shaft is around 7 bucks and maybe 5 for the drive gear . Again as I said previously maybe two years ago ,I have no idea what goes wrong with them but a new shaft gets it . You might try running some kerosine through it first as it will save you several hours of tear down and...

Aha , picture

You have to literally field strip that little rascal to get to the pump . The pump housing itself is part of the side plate .