gotta get this one off my chest

What are the odds DM will tell us the ins and outs of that stump. Maybe he wont cuz feels hasn't been given enough respect for that which many of us don't understand, yet. 60/40 he'll tell us.

I have more hope Chris will explain.
 
I wish somebody would, I don't know much about maples and I'm sick of re reading this thread.

Dan said Maple, Cory said Norway maple. Around here I only seem to see Sycamore maple/ Acer pseudoplatanus. So hinge wise I wouldn't have a clue.
 
I only use Canadian, we don't get the secret stuff.

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What I see is that your saw isn't cutting straight but you've filed down the rakers to make it more aggressive in order to compensate for the crooked filing job.
 
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  • #59
I thoroughly enjoy an intelligent discussion of the many detailed aspects of falling and rigging... Love it actually... nobody wants to play that game... you want to talk shit? don't expect to wake up smelling roses
 
I'm still trying to figure out why you're so proud of that hinge and why you'd nip the sides.

Care to explain and have a discussion or are you just here for the shit talking?
 
I have more hope Chris will explain.

Sorry, I've been away for a few days. The reason that I will cut the sides (not sure Daniel's reason), as most of you know is because some trees pull fiber while they're being felled and the easiest way to prevent this is to make side cuts on either side of the notch. What I was taught was to cut the last 5-7 years of growth rings, because they are the most likely ones to split.
 
Do you cut off the sound hinge wood, up to the rot?

Safety for the cutter...could reduce barberchairing when the machine operator and cutter aren't using good communication and the machine op pulls when the cutter is yelling at monkeys.
 
The reason that I will cut the sides (not sure Daniel's reason), as most of you know is because some trees pull fiber while they're being felled and the easiest way to prevent this is to make side cuts on either side of the notch.

Why is pulling fiber a problem when felling from the ground and when you aren't cutting logs for grade timber?

We'll draw daniel in by having a wrong headed, feeble discussion about the cut in question so he will feel compelled to educate the commoners.
 
Omg this is so silly. Its the inter webs, its all good. But can you imagine Jed or August or Rich etc etc noting an interesting or unusual hinge they made and then refusing to break it down in detail when folks inquired?? Omg that is funny and bizarre. I suppose there's mental illness or beefy personality quirks involved, its all good.
 
Daniel said that the cut wasn't completely finished when the pull occurred. I guess that the tapper would have been reduced if the monkeys weren't standing in his drop zone.
But we don't have a clue about a side lean or an unbalanced crown.


Why is pulling fiber a problem when felling from the ground and when you aren't cutting logs for grade timber?
I got once a substantial side drift by the fiber pulling on a stump. I aimed my notch's cuts to end just before a big buttress root, hoping a good holding hinge for a side leaner. It worked too much, sheared the stump and really scared the target on the side.
I keep that as a good reason for the side cuts, seeing the nice whiskers on the trunk's butt.

I 'm more concerned by the mismatch cuts of the notch. The bar tip didn't leave much wood for the hinge on the left. Plus the side cut, plus the central decay, I'd say that Daniel wasn't far from getting his saw stuck. At least.
 
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  • #70
I've seen trees get pulled off the gun by side tearing fibers holding on one side of the hinge. Only on smaller diameter stringy conifers, like hemlocks. Usually with an open face notch and a tree of any size, there will be too much momentum for any tearing of the fibers in the cambium to pull the tree off the gun.... It would be extremely rare for these corner cuts to be a "problem" in the trees that I fall, so it never hurts to do it. However I rarely do it for that reason as this is not a consideration in 98%+ of the trees I fall. And This is not the reason I cut the corners on this tree...

Corner cuts can be an extremely important safety factor when tied in below a topping cut... SHould the fibers pull down the cambium it could tear into your lanyard or climbing line, and suck you into the tree. Knowing your species is important.. I've noticed the guys working the big eucs in Australia like Dave Coleman tend to use corner cuts religiously ...

Another important factor is the height of the back cut.. A high back cut will allow more chance of twisted grain to angle back behind the notch and cause fiber pull down the trunk... Had it happen on a cherry many years ago, threw the top off line by 15-20 degrees... Scary!

And FYI its an urban legend that the fibers in sap wood are more flexible and therefore have better holding ability than the heartwood... We've been down this road before but some guys just don't get it.. Now there may be some species that this is true on, but as a rule.... no. Generally the reason that sapwood may have better holding ability against side lean, to the extent that it does, is strictly due to the leveraged position of the fibers relative to the lean..
 
I would have thought your second paragraph, although correct to an extent, is irrelevant as you were telling from the ground?

I would also say that Dave uses kerf cuts below the hinge to prevent from the tear down... where as you have compromised the hinge width by directly cutting the corners off.

What's your take on these points?
 
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