Best cut for clearing roads with heavy equipment

Brock Mayo

Brock Mayo

TreeHouser
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Messages
187
Location
Cottage Grove, OR
Hey all,
I'm looking for some descriptions of snap cuts for large whole logs on the ground. Where you cut up the tree to the point where the machine can come along and snap the log off after you're onto the next tree. I could go grab the fundamentals, but I'm sure there are a lot of ways to do it.
I think what I've heard of is plunge though the middle of the log and cut about the middle half of the tree. Then move up or down from that cut and come in from both sides. Much like a normal snap cut, but with three cuts instead of two.
Anyhow, does this sound right? And what are some good rules or things to watch out for? Or are there other options that let the machine finish the job while you are out of harms way? Thanks!

-Brock
 
Why not just cut it like you were bucking timber? Seems to me it would be more dangerous to leave a log ready to snap rather than just bucking it up.
 
I have used a bypass type cut. Why not just buck it all the way thru? Or leave a small strap to break.
 
I'd think the best way to make a snap cut for machinery is to either leave a little holding wood right in the center of the log (if there's risk of the log rolling, so you don't know which way it will be picked up by the machine) or just leave a little holding strap on the bottom, which should break when the other end is lifted. Or use 2 closely overlapping cuts, so the wood in the middle can split apart easily.

Just my thoughts

Oh, and things to watch out for: Don't leave the holding strap of wood on the side of the log opposite from you. It's more difficult the other way, but having the strap on your side generally keeps the logs from hinging into you if there is tension in them.
 
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  • #5
Just wondering for those binds that can be tricky to read, we have a crazy mess of trees down from a rare snow storm. Know a guy who got pretty banged up reading a bind wrong, and it seems like if a machine is coming to grab the tree, you'd always be safer to let the machine finish the cut. Anyhow, I've never tried the cut I described, just wondering what other folks might be using on the tricky ones? Thanks!
 
If you cut most of the way through, a machine will commonly be able to break it.

I'd say some well offset kerfs for a snap-cut.

Rather than using a plastic wedge, consider cutting wood ones. Years back, and old houser,Chris, shared the trick of cutting through a top-bind, straight-through, with his logger uncle's trick. Cut until almost binding/ just starting to bind a little. Pull your saw out. Make a kerf on an angle to the first, offset a light 1/2". Angle the second kerf to make a small wedge. Let the wedge fall into the cut. Bang it in with the bottom of the bar. Ream a little to get in the bottom of the first kerft, and let the compression load up on the wedge until you can continue to cut down through, without binding. You can leave the bottom of the log uncut, ready to break.


Don't always cross-cut. Slanting cuts can be easier to push or pull apart, as there is not End-binding after the cut is made. Hope that makes sense when you think it through. Same applies to all logs, don't get caught in the must-cross-cut as perpendicularly as possible mindset.
 
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  • #9
Yeah I remember reading the make your own wedge post, it's pretty awesome, though I find reaming to be the most useful tip... I'm surprised how many folks I talk to don't know about reaming.
Anyhow, thanks for the help everyone. One aspect of the cut I think I heard about is it shouldn't wreck your log when the machine breaks it. If you just leave uncut wood at the bottom or top of your cut, the machine will surely break it but it will also mess up the log.
 
Sometimes cut to Dutch in direction of proposed pull is needed to get snap easiest.
Can even cut face up and backcut down and throw rock in upward face.
As long as solid stop inner and 'nose' of face still allowed to turn passed that point.
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Like the slant cut for more linear compression of wanting to push itself apart.
Twisted, torqued can be hard to calc where to plot reliefs and can get more conflicting forces, especially if cracked etc. so is not a monolith of 1 unjamming piece but rather different sections that can jam each other.
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Drop across spars gives more determinable compressions and tensions, and spaces from ground/sand.
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Consider peeling what bark can if in dirt on dirt side, even blow dry out dirt, then might try rinse to keep sand out of works.
1 grain of sand uncrushable silicate averages 18 cutting surfaces per grain and chain saw can use as sandblaster to turn chain knives into trying to cut with back of spoon profile!
 
theTreeSpyder said:
1 grain of sand uncrushable silicate averages 18 cutting surfaces per grain and chain saw can use as sandblaster to turn chain knives into trying to cut with back of spoon profile!
Click to expand...
Laughing at the understood irony! Now that is a quotable quote for your thread, Cory!
 
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  • #12
I think understood almost all of that post Kenny! I've definitely turned my share of chain knives into spoons :)
Are you saying that when you crush sand down to its smallest size, the average grain will be an octadecagon?
 
1 grain of sand uncrushable silicate averages 18 cutting surfaces per grain
Click to expand...
That statement should be reformulated. What cuts isn't the surfaces themselves, but the edges between them.
Surface does nothing excepted spreading the load or /and giving a sliding area.
See the spooned chainsaw teeth? you have only surfaces against the wood, no edge.
 
i see what you mean;
but meant as these surfaces hone to edge, that cuts yes as surface sides can also serve to cleave apart wider;
>>all in all a destructive cutting/grinding machine when given power.
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i believe i am quoting some far off memory about sand 18 sides/edges average.
>>but in any case;i think gives proper working imagery model to go by.
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Have same imagery (by any name please);
for grains of sand working into rope internals,
then silently hidden and protected, are powered by loaded usage to work back and forth; and tension contraction of loading and unloading itself i think, to include cranking around arcs in lowering as we do; to saw rope fibers degrading strength over time.
Flat Rope/webbing less strength loss on arc static on branch less deformation, but would get eaten up on lowering, and has 1 favorable bend axis to not deform too much, all round rope axis are same efficiency loss leveraged/bent at any angle .
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This is why mountain/rescue disciplines go nuts if step on a line(let alone run car over), can press sand grain(s) thru jacket to theoretically give problems much later/unassociated to cause due to wide timeline
>>treat rope/gear as 'sacred'.
>>downgrade ropes in timely fashion from primary lifeline also overhead lifting and lowering positions.
(to rule out this cumulative damage, and other low level/slow damage of UV, air etc.)
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By extension would expect a clean carpet to last longer (and be lighter).
 
Not trying to be argumentative but snap cuts and saw logs , I just don't see it as a plus. Make square cut measured length logs that will sell as you go , machine forwards them. Or leave them Tree length for forwarding and re-cut on flat landing somewhere.
 
i used to sandblast on bridges; then later on deep mine equipment with water/sand with so much power could still see spark in darker corners.
Small grains can do all that as ally, but then too can tear up rope internals as foe, can do same razor thinned edge of steel tooth and face plates that cleave apart. Number of angles on each tooth to get right, to restore full functionality (then right amount of exposure /depth gauge to wood type/temp).
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Amsteel is crazy azz strong Dyneema , 1/2" = 34,000 tensile and floats! (4" harbour tow ~1,800,000# tensile)
Thus our thin Dyneema slings only need few strands of true Dyneema, add polyester cuz so slippery (teflonic?) and for color etc.
>>we use nylon as more elastic than polyester; but much more rubber-band in polyester than Dyneema/or even more static Spectra builds. Longer molecule for more strength , less water absorption than Kevlar. Powered baby sand gran,eats it all.
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internal-rope-destruction-guides.png
 
Good pictorial guide for rope wear. Thanks, Kenny.

I learned rock climbing from the army Rangers as part of a survival course when I was 16. One week on the mountain with them running the show. They were rabidly nuts about stepping on ropes and getting the ropes dirty. We used stranded gold line rope which is three strand. All mistakes were punished with immediate push-ups. If you were on the ground....lucky. If you wer 50 feet up on a rock face do them anyway. Always feet uphill no matter where you were. Some of my push-ups were done 50 feet up like a handstand looking down the mountain.
 
I make a point not to, and tell people not to stand, in ropes, electrical cords, hoses, keyboards, electric drills or other tooll, particularly ropes, as nothing else supports my life, or things over my life.



If I have to tell them not to stand on a drill, I wouldn't have them around.
 
I've been great, bud. My wife was sick, (breast cancer) but after getting nuked and amputated... she's on the mend, thank God.
 
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