Stihl 084 with like new 30" ES .404 bar + chain

Cut4fun

Redneck Chainsaw Repair
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Nov 27, 2007
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Stihl 084 with like new 30" ES .404 bar + chain

Had a good looking stock stihl 084 come in about a month ago. Stihl 084 with like new 30" ES .404 bar + chain. Tested out and runs and cuts as should. No known problems found looking it over or running cutting with it. $800 plus shipping. Can work on PHO deal too.


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Stihl did the market research, very few 084 's are sold with a wrap handle for falling purposes. Non wrap used for bucking, milling and stumping applications.
Wraps are definitely an option though, but just an option.
 
I'll revise my statement...for me, it would need wrap handles :). I don't believe bucking, which requires limbing, can be done well and as safely without a wrap handle. But I'm not limbing on the side of the tree, spinning the multi-point limb technique (and I doubt many running an 084 would, either :)). Hereabouts, we usually walk the stem and limb from there.
 
I guess I didn't explain "bucking" already delimbed tree length at the landing or mill yard with a large displacement saw.
In our neck of the woods and many others........with a smaller displacement saw timber is felled, limbed and topped in the bush where the tree falls [better regeneration on flat ground.]
Not all logging sites around the globe are on 50% slopes.:)
 
I maybe should sell my 880, never use the thing. The 076 is purposeful enough for anything so big, and having two of them.... Stephen, I should bequeath the giant saw it to you in my will. it will probably still look new.
 
I guess I didn't explain "bucking" tree length at the landing or mill yard. :roll:
In our neck of the woods and many others........ timber is limbed and topped in the bush where the tree falls [better regeneration on flat ground.]
Not all logging sites around the globe are on 50% slopes.:)

;) Same here Willard, felled trees are limbed, topped in the bush (we say brush). No worries, brother.
 
Big ole 100 Plus cc saws last almost forever .I mean they are Clydsdales but really they don't see much action as a general rule .

That big ole powerfull saw will last the next 30 years if it doesn't get abused most likely .
 
Ive never used a saw with more then a half wrap. Never even held a saw with a full wrap. Its unseen in these parts. Ive often thought about ordering a wrap handle but I guess its just not something I need. Even in my logging days, a half wrap felt fine to me. I worked on plenty of sidehills but never anything as brutal as the PNW.
 
With a half wrap it seems to me you'd be back chaining at times espescially in a residential setting where sometimes you're forced to cut from a certain side. All of my saws except for the 200s have wraps. I backchain at times but its an instant fail on the bc fallers cert.
 
I backchain at times but its an instant fail on the bc fallers cert.
Yes you don't want to go tumbling ass over tea kettle down a mountain slope:lol:
Here on the plains backchaining is accepted and a real timer saver, also safer with less time at the stump.
I think with the issue in B.C. is the majority of logging at one time was high stump and ease of backcutting with the rewind housing in a downward postiion.
Out here where we cut almost flush to the ground for ease of skidding with a skidder or forwarder high stumps just don't work here.
 
Ive never used a saw with more then a half wrap. Never even held a saw with a full wrap. Its unseen in these parts. Ive often thought about ordering a wrap handle but I guess its just not something I need. Even in my logging days, a half wrap felt fine to me. I worked on plenty of sidehills but never anything as brutal as the PNW.

Mopeds beat the snot outta walking, until you ride a motorcycle.

Seems worth a try, since its so super easy on and off, and available used, and sellable for the used buying price.

I used half-wraps for my first couple years. The got full-wraps on used saw I bought.




I could go my whole life without a hopped up saw, and think Pro grade saws are fine, but once running a hopped up saw, it changes things.
 
Chunking down a leaning stem is a good time for a full wrap. I wish I had one for my 361 (my typical in tree saw after my top-handle). Would avoid some backchaining, and also be able to avoid some chip spraying on my torso/ toward my face.

The full wrap changes the height of the bar in relation to the user. Sometimes, that 6" difference make a big difference, if you are trying to get a cut in at a certain height, say above a branch collar with straighter grain.
 
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  • #21
I use 3/4 wrap mostly on the bigger saws I find it a nice medium...

I had 4 084 myself and 2 of them had 3/4 that was cut off to make a half wrap. All came from WV that was 3/4 and cut off. Not that it mattered to me.
 
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  • #22
In this pic one, I had replaced one of the cut ones already. The 3/4 cut was on the left in pic. I also traded that 166 full wrap for a half. The 166 full wrap is a skinny handle and I like the thicker handle of the 166 half wrap.

 
Yes you don't want to go tumbling ass over tea kettle down a mountain slope:lol:
Here on the plains backchaining is accepted and a real timer saver, also safer with less time at the stump.
I think with the issue in B.C. is the majority of logging at one time was high stump and ease of backcutting with the rewind housing in a downward postiion.
Out here where we cut almost flush to the ground for ease of skidding with a skidder or forwarder high stumps just don't work here.

So you mean it's an accepted practice in your guys compo regs? I hardly see backchaining being safer in any situation. But maybe I'm missing something? The stump height thing always is hard for me to imagine but obviously its different out on the plains.
 
So you mean it's an accepted practice in your guys compo regs? I hardly see backchaining being safer in any situation. But maybe I'm missing something? The stump height thing always is hard for me to imagine but obviously its different out on the plains.
Back chaining never was an issue here, mind you average b/c here is 18"-20"which doesn't put a whole lot of strain on the operator. But even with the 24" pros here know enough not to lower the drags too much.
Here on the plains try cut a 10" or 12" high stump in 12" diameter wood and you'll have your skidder operator chasing you all over the strip trying to run you over.
:lol:
 
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