Rope Wrench & Other Such Devices

RiverRat

TreeHouser
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Mar 3, 2014
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Any one have a favorite friction device for SRT ?

Some time ago had 3 tall but midsize removals. It was hot. I was dehydrated got a real bad cramp in the back of my leg while on my hooks standing on the snag.

I'll be home before long & I'm hoping to gain a better idea of what works well. Been meaning to do this for some time now.

I've no desire at present to climb SRT. But I would like to switch to it on take downs after they are limb out & I start chunking.

Any reason the Rope Wrench wouldnt be a good choice for this ?

Wanting some thoughts especially if you've used different variations of these friction devices... Jeff
 
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Oh, I'm not wanting a stand alone device but something works in unison with my friction hitch... Jeff
 
I am a fan of the Hitch Hiker, still on my original, there is a second generation the HH2 and another called the HHx.
It's a hybrid mechanical friction device combined with a cord friction hitch.
It can easily be switched between SRT and MRS (DdRT)
Some ropes tend one hand better than others through it, and some people find the addition of a pulley or a bent gate biner below make one hand tending easier.
I love how responsive it is, easy to use, and that nice combination of mechanical and the old familiar friction hitch.
I did try an Akimbo, self tends beautifully on ascent, just didn't have time to dial it in just right for limbwalking, would defo give it another go.
I haven't had the opportunity to try a rope wrench yet.
 
The Rope Wrench will work fine and is probably the most popular SRS device world wide. SRS/SRT is something you should definitely look into. It will give you so many more options, increasing safety, while also reducing energy expenditures.

I far prefer the HH (best, toughest climbing tool for tree work I have ever used) over the RR. The Akimbo is also a very good tool. Both are much more compact and just sit better when choking a spar during a removal. For some reason, some climbers have a hard time getting the HH and Akimbo dialed-in. Not sure what that's all about but I suspect climbers set them up too conservatively.
 
I fly my HH as a daily driver.

Haven't bothered to set up my HH2.

Fly my wrench as a secondary line, rarely.

I fly my Akimbo, too.

HH on HTP must of all.
 
Static rope work is
So versatile & opens up new avenues- not just in accessing the tree.
HH is so versatile & super compact for working on a stem. Love my rope wrench too - super smooth with the zigzag.
 
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Looks like there is a definite fav... Jeff
 
I started with a rope wrench and am still using it. Srt is such a game changer you will likely switch to it full time if you give it a chance. Ascent is amazing, but what you can do with redirects makes it so much easier. The limbing out process is so much easier with srt, it opens up possibilities for working the tree that just aren't there with double rope. You can set up remotely rigged and retrievable redirects, which could never hold your weight, and basically move your tie in point to anywhere in the tree. However i usually go to double rope for the stem, with a friction saver. Drop down to the next cut, pull my rope, then set it up again.
 
I'm surprised by those last two sentences, Kyle. Setting a choked SRS line with a tail as long as needed to reach your next work station, works great and is a smooth transition from working the canopy.
 
Another hitch based SRT option is the Sticht hitch, with a greater dependence on the hitch cord with the minimal hardware. You can descend in an easy and smooth manner if the hitch is adjusted right. Some type of descender should be used for longer, or fast descents. It is also slightly cheaper than the other two devices.
1CDB12BD-9E38-4CC1-AD13-274FCA775A08.jpeg
 
Well, once we get beyond discussion of mech/hitch combination devices and move to the hitches that support them...well, we get into so many mutations and variations as to make the whole thing a bit confusing :D.
 
I'm part time, so I'm not a production climber, and i kinda suck. And I'm in hardwoods, so working the stem is a bit different than blocking down 150 feet of trunk, it's usually a handful of cuts to be able to drop the rest. :/: :/: :/: I sometimes have stubs :/: so it really leads to using double rope. Also using the rw, it's a longer setup so the doubled setup with a friction saver gets closer to the trunk.
 
Nah, I've just thought some stuff out before :lol: there's a method to my madness, whether it's the right one, probably not, but I've at least thought about it 🤣 🤣 🤣
 
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Great stuff ! Brocky, thanks for the great pic... Jeff
 
Well, once we get beyond discussion of mech/hitch combination devices and move to the hitches that support them...well, we get into so many mutations and variations as to make the whole thing a bit confusing :D.
With the dozens of hitches, cords and ropes, combining and comparing all three could be a full time occupation to see how they work for the RW and HH.
But the Sticht is another option besides the RW and HH. It works by itself in SRT mode. Unlike most hitches, it easily releases and descends under full control just like the two devices. It’s a simple and cheap way for those wanting to try SRT without spending a lot.
 
With the dozens of hitches, cords and ropes, combining and comparing all three could be a full time occupation to see how they work for the RW and HH.
But the Sticht is another option besides the RW and HH. It works by itself in SRT mode. Unlike most hitches, it easily releases and descends under full control just like the two devices. It’s a simple and cheap way for those wanting to try SRT without spending a lot.

What's a Sticht? You mean a Sticht plate? How do you set that up?
 
Yeah that photo was confusing...what's with the soft shackle in place of the biner in the HH?
 
The name comes from the plate because that is what I used instead of the ring the first time when I came up with it. There various things that can be used to make the hitch work.
B210C3F5-BA45-40F3-B76E-EB69E14038B8.jpeg

The soft shackle is lighter, more compact, and prevents the cross loading of a carabiner. Adding a bushing eliminates the unwanted textile on textile friction. A short double eye strap can also be used for faster on and off, with a smaller carabiner it only adds about an inch to the distance.
7D6B84A6-0BEA-4C8A-B16F-4AFBBC39DB72.jpeg
 
Haha Gary!!!
Thinking and an open mind is good, so long as it's not SO open your brain falls out...
Slight correction LOL.
Good correction. It was your post about the climate change scientist where I first saw that concept and I love it.
 
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