Preferred notch for a suspected barber chair tree?

I don’t have as much experience as most on this forum so take with grain of salt ... on EAB ash trees (or any tree with head lean) we like to “choke” the trunk above the felling cut with chain or robust ratch straps ... if it starts to chair it will be prevented from splitting “up the center”
 
I second that approach, Frankie; have only had to do it on one or 2 of the dead ones I've dropped, but that's what books/manuals recommend as well (and it works).
 
Looked like there was no facecut. Would have gone over fine with a face methinks.
 
No FC??? Well slap me around a little butterball!!! Can't believed I missed that!!!

Yes - Please! Give it a facecut!!!
 
There was definitely a face-cut ... maybe not deep enough .... that was 2yrs ago and I’ve progressed considerably... just trying to show the OP thru me experience ... HAD I CHAINED the tree in this instance I wood have had a much easier time ! Not afraid to show mistakes - that’s how ya learn - maybe this helps the OP out !
 
Here’s one that went down ok ... gotta understand these ash can be rotten as hell inside ! If you go to deep in the face your f’d NO HOLDING WOOD.... these ain’t live trees with solid wood thru and thru ...
 
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I will typically use a bore cut. Just thought I would see what different techniques/tips people are using. I like the cam strap or chain idea for sketchy trees. I employ this while climbing at times but hadn't really thought about it on the ground.
 
For the few minutes it takes to set up its well worth doing on any ? Tree
 
Shallow, off the lean.

Throw a chain above, slap in a couple wedges between chain and tree, and tap tight.
I don’t have as much experience as most on this forum so take with grain of salt ... on EAB ash trees (or any tree with head lean) we like to “choke” the trunk above the felling cut with chain or robust ratch straps ... if it starts to chair it will be prevented from splitting “up the center”
Smack wedges between chain and trunk tighten.
 
There is a triangle cut.


All in one back-cut plane.

Cut one side from dead-center rear to cut some of the hinge corner.
Cut other side of back-cut dead-center to the other side, cutting off a bit of the hinge corner.
Rip into it from the rear up to the hinge fast, and not a thick hinge.


You have reduced the holding wood to be cut from the backcut with this triangular shape of holding wood. Rip it fast.
Won't pull a root.
You've mostly isolated some fibers on the outside from the internal forces of the leaning tree. A "belt" of sorts.


Sharp and powerful saw. Not a time for a small saw.






Face it offset to the lean a bit. Offset gravity from the hinge axis.




Shallow face-cut. Don't exacerbate the loading-up of internal tension by undermining with a wider hinge found deeper.
 
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Here’s one that went down ok ... gotta understand these ash can be rotten as hell inside ! If you go to deep in the face your f’d NO HOLDING WOOD.... these ain’t live trees with solid wood thru and thru ...


Most deciduous trees become hollow, it's no big deal. As long as you have wood on the sides of the hinge you are good, as that's the only wood that helps steer the tree. It's a very common practice to gut the hinge, meaning intentionality cut the center part of the hinge out. This allows less force to send the tree to the lay, without affecting the holding wood.
 
Coos Bay WTF if you don't need directional control but otherwise bore the backcut with a normal face.
 
Coos bay is good providing the tree is sound. After that, the options are either deep gob & fast back cut or bore cut.

Edit - as Sean said, the triangle cut is efficient too
 
I think I've heard of a reverse triangle, one maybe being dubbed Golden Triangle...

Like a Coos Bay, no directional control. No face cut.

The triangle points to the lean/ layout. The farther into the backcut, the narrower the width, so cut speed accelerates as you cut deeper.

Sound familiar to anyone?




Pete, a deep gob, on a hard leaner?
 
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