Partner P-100--McCulloch 1000

Al Smith

Mac Daddy
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Mar 6, 2005
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Northern Ohio
They are basically the same saw circa late 70'early 80's .I recently resurrected two of them .They are rare in these parts and it took me two years to round up all the parts but only about a week to reassemble them .
As far as power and design these from my perspective are one of the most robust in design of any semi modern saw I've ever worked on which is many from many manufactures .The chase for parts made it also the most challenging since much earlier in life chasing down parts for Indian motorcycles .
Partner listed them as 6 HP while Husqvarna listed their same displacement saw, the 2100 at 6.8 .Whatever but I'd put then a tad more powerful that the older style Stihl 066 .
I can't find the disassembly pictures but I do have one of the first engine and a pic of the two completed .One will get the full treatment of a new paint job and decals ..
 

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More about this .I suppose Partner had special bar plates and likely their own bar code pattern .However those would be like looking for a hen's tooth .However if you use the bar plates from a model 2100 Husqvarna then those bars will fit .These are reasonable in price but bar plates for the Mac 1000 are very costly .I have both however for a Mac bar to work it has to be the one with 4 holes in the tail and a wider tail not the standard two holes ,also rare for the 10 series mac saws .
Although rated for 36" bars which I have only one plus two 32" I see no reason to mount one .These are set up for one with 20" and one with 24" which is plenty long enough and both run 8 pin rims .Do the math,99 cc and a 20" bar with an 8 ..Fast ---:D
 
100cc saws with gobs of torque ... Heavy , and most likely will vibrate the fillings out of your teeth ! I believe the partner came out in 1975 ... nice project if into old saws , personally I’d take a modern ported offering
 
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They have a fairly effective anti vib system .They aren't as heavy as they look but they are not light weights .I pulled the spark screens which shorts the exhaust through the bottom which did raise the noise level but it also improved the flow .That isn't that bad either .I have smaller saws that make a lot more noise. .Because it's a form of a baffled muffler I'd have to cut it apart to gut it which I'm not going to do as they do just fine the way they are .They've got enough I'm not going to "enhance " them .I've got enough souped up saws already which is not saying I won't do a few more because I most likely will .at some time .
 
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While I'm at I might point out two things just for general information .These things used two type of ignitions .One is a self contained coil another named "ignitron " is two piece with a coil and a separate trigger unit which is nearly impossible to find .
As luck would have it the coil from a 272 Husqvarna is a drop in plus these are hot coils and after market is cheap . Like 12-15 bucks .
Secondly the oil pumps are internal driven by a worm gear within the crankcase .Very well made and should never wear out .The weak link is an O-ring that seals the shaft from the barrel can wear out and they leak oil into the crankcase and smoke like they are burning soft coal .It's a 5mm by .1.75 thickness about 6 dollars for 25 of them .Simple fix .Partner used this type on several saws .
 
Looks like 3 bar tensioner screws on the front of that case, like someone just kept driving them in there. What are they really for? Will these go to a museum?
 
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That is the access to the oil pump . bottom left is the pump, above is the retainer holding it and left is the oil pick tube .If it won't pick up you prime it by priming the pump through the screw off cover . I only had to do that once BTW when I got it the rings were shot and it ran badly after I got the first saw before I rebuilt it .New rings is why the D-handles on both as they have no decomp .The first time after the rebuild that saw tried to pull my fingers off .After doing it four times out came the D-handles .Tensioner is in the clutch cover .
 
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This is the pump with a pencil pointing to the O-ring s seal
 

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Every thing actually was good except I had to drill the rings loose on one ( old trick ) .It looked like it had spent some time in the Pacific ocean .I used a grease gun to pop it loose which is an old trick also .BTW things like unsticking a frozen engine is not my first rodeo but this was the smallest engine I've used these old tricks on .New piston rings .New seals ,Chicago raw hide and piston bearings .Main bearings were good .Made new gaskets .
These are the same engine as a K1200 concrete saw which was very popular in this area in it's day .I assume the concrete saw used a limited coil .
Tell me where to find the serial numbers and I'll post them .Like I said these are my first Partners ever to own or work on . I really like them and may collect more in the future .
 
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Incidental stuff like choke linkages I had to fabricate . One flywheel was damaged because somebody used a pry bar on the fins breaking them off .Found a new one . Used the starter pawls from a Partner K700 concrete saw with Husqvarna return springs ..
One saw somebody had jambed 14 MM circlips in a 13 Mm piston pin holes .Those were replaced with 13 MM Husqvarna clips.
I have a book on older Partner stuff but I could not cross reference things using the Partner IPL' numbers .However once I got a reprint on McCulloch 1000 it was not a problem .Things like research and collecting the parts were what took me two years .Like I've said many times if it were easy anybody could do it .;)
 
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The serial number is mostly in front on case were it hit wood if there is no dawgs. If not its on a tag in rear of saw.
 
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I'll see if I can find them .-----Now then I did find the pics of the disassembley which was on another camera .The deal was I bought this saw to only use the crankcase but after I had it apart decided to rebuild it and then I found another crankcase and that's how I ended up with two saws .
It was stuck tight .How I did it was by knocking the center out of a spark plug and installing a grease zert to pump grease in the cylinder thus lifting the cylinder off the piston .The average grease guns puts out around 5,000 PSI so something will either move or break .On a hung piston you only have to move it maybe a quarter of an inch . As before said I've used this method to free tractor engines .
At first look you would think that engine was junk but believe it or not everything cleaned up .It took me about two hours to get the piston rings off .BTW this assembly in another crankcase will out run the other one and they are not even broken in yet so they will only get better with some run time .
 

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Serial numbers P-100 super 102B with 12180 below those numbers .McCulloch 1000 originally had 11-104670 with 101F below those .That crankcase was damaged but repairable. It was replaced by the entire crankcase with the rotating assembly except the piston with number 1758232 .
 
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