How many is too many? Asking for a friend (cough)

Idk how many I own, I’d guess 20 or so that are used for speed lines and light rigging, all of them are bulk tubular webbing, beer knotted and used with the 6$ ISC steel screwgates. I’ve bought a couple 25 yard rolls of webbing over the years. Nets a lot of slings :)

I have some sewn ones too from CMI and Weaver, that I use for climbing redirects, primary anchor TIP and friction savers.

Beer knots on bulk webbings is probably 1/5 the cost of sewn slings and bomber. I’d absolutely be comfortable using them for life support if it’s the right rated webbing. I think 4,000 lb webbing and once knotted it’s doubled... idk how much strength loss occurs from beer knot but even if it’s 25% (I’m sure it’s less) that’s still plenty strong to climb on.

I got a feeling you’re got an outrageous number of slings :D
 
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  • #5
Not an outrageous number, 15, but I want to add 15 more. If having 49 of them is less than outrageous I may go that route. You know I don't want to be "that guy" lol.
I have a few spruce gigs lining up that a lot of slings would be handy. One is a Norway spruce with no less than a million 1 inch by 4 foot limbs. LZ is a horrible location and a speed line is clutch.
 

Dirt cheap and good quality.

*Edit* On closer examination something is screwy w the prices there... 100’ for $33.99 but 300’ for $129.59.
I got mine from EBay, but same stuff from Sterl
 
I keep extras in case something gets nicked.
Ill work with 12 at a time. Dont need so many ling ones, like four of three sizes in the bag in case. Those work good for setting the line along the stem sometimes or if you need a longer strap to reach.
My kit probably has 40 loop runners in it. 6 sizes.
 
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  • #8
Ok 40 sounds like a good number. 24-36" is more than long enough.
 
I think I've got 2 sets with 10ea on them. Mostly non lockers but 2 lockers on each set for tops or limbs that are gonna come off dynamically. 24 & 30" slings if i remember correctly. I can't focus enough to set more than 20 slings in one go, usually only do a dozen or so and keep some on my belt for the stragglers.
 
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  • #10
The one tree I have in mind I'll probably set 6-8 snug up the line and just keep them sliding. I am thinking more slings the less time reloading my supply aloft. The line angle will be fairly steep but that is a plus as the limbs are going to be light.
 
What are good lengths to have? I mentioned awhile ago all the polypro I got in a rope ends bundle, and I was thinking about making speed line loops out of it. They'll be limited due to the fairly low working load, but I'm not dropping big weights at this point anyway. I might be able to use a speedline for my locust removal this fall. I still need to plan it all out. Cut&toss might work fine too, with fewer complications.
 
The one tree I have in mind I'll probably set 6-8 snug up the line and just keep them sliding. I am thinking more slings the less time reloading my supply aloft. The line angle will be fairly steep but that is a plus as the limbs are going to be light.
We deal with big spans or relatively flat angles alot. one of the best things I've found is to use a back guy so you can get your line as tight as possible.
My favorite way to set that up is use one rope (or two tied together if you need the length) thru a ring or block at the top of the tree, then in as straight a line as you can get it, tie it back to another tree, truck, whatever you have. greatly reduces the amount of movement in the tree and lets you get the rope way tighter. Also you then have a rigging point and rope in place to lower the top if you're so inclined.

We also usually use a 3:1 to tighten big spans, instead of doing it inline with a prussik that constantly needs to be advanced as you strip the tree up and gain rope, use fixed anchors for your pulleys. Chipper and another truck or tree or two trees whatever, you get the idea. Then as you gain rope as you progress, the groundman only needs to take up slack at his end of the rope.
Sort of figured this one out by accident. There was a shipping container in the way of where we'd have had the truck, so we zipped to the Conex. those holes in the corners (top and bottom) got pulleys for a quick 3:1, really 2:1 with redirect. Worked great! Been setting them up in an similar fashion since.
 
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  • #14
So who uses cordage for slings instead of webbing? Just asking for another friend.
 
I have 20 webbing sling in one kit. A few more in another kit along with heavy slings for wood or heavy limbs, two cordage and the rest heavy duty webbing (about 10 total). Also have a couple of the newer (ISC?) biners with pulley to work better on flatter runs of rope.

Now I'll be using Greengrear's ideas in post #13 to have flatter runs of rope tighter and still not stress tree to one side to much.
 
I keep about 20 in each truck. I've heard cordage grabs better but I've never had a webbing sling slip if set right. I use the steel non locking clips with the little keeper strip in the bottom. They're pretty easy for the ground man with gloves on to disconnect. Haven't had one come off yet. If I think there may be a chance, I'll use two slings with the gates opposing.
 
I really like the aluminum snaps with a S/S insert in the corner and webbing slot at one end that August originally used in his kits. He dropped them at one point - as I recall, expense and occasionally jumping off the speed line. If I fear that I double up and oppose snaps as Benjo.

At first I set up my slings with those Kong all S/S biners with corner traps. Those loved to jump the speedline under any bounce conditions.
 
40 is a lot of weigh hanging on your saddle.

I carry 6 almost all the times for self retention, rope rigging, SRT redirects, occasional lanyard (when positioning is tricky)... Ziplining too, but it's actually very rare.
A retired one is a lanyard for my chainsaw.
At first I used screwing carabiners, but it appears that I regularly forget to secure them. So it's autolocking steel carabiners now. A bit heavier, but it overcome my brain lacks.
I splice the slings with a cheap twisted PP rope from the hardware store, 14 mm, 4 strands, given to 3000kg. They are about 48" long, with a tight eye staying on the biner and a big eye to pass the biner through (for chocking purpose, mostly in self-retention mode).
 
Good thread! I agree, 30 or so would be good for a spruce.

Great idea, Jonny, about a roll of webbing. I agree, the knot ( i use a water knot) is totally safe, ya aint need splices.
 
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I've had good luck with these. The steel insert is super polished, goes down the rope fast. They're hardly any heavier than a normal aluminum biner and seem to dissipate heat a little better than steel too. Think I paid about 8 bucks a pop for them.
They make locking ones and the CT snaps that August had on his kit are sweet but that shit gets pricey when you're doing 20 of em.
 
40 is a lot of weigh hanging on your saddle.

I carry 6 almost all the times for self retention, rope rigging, SRT redirects, occasional lanyard (when positioning is tricky)... Ziplining too, but it's actually very rare.
A retired one is a lanyard for my chainsaw.
At first I used screwing carabiners, but it appears that I regularly forget to secure them. So it's autolocking steel carabiners now. A bit heavier, but it overcome my brain lacks.
I splice the slings with a cheap twisted PP rope from the hardware store, 14 mm, 4 strands, given to 3000kg. They are about 48" long, with a tight eye staying on the biner and a big eye to pass the biner through (for chocking purpose, mostly in self-retention mode).
40 in the bag of tricks. I never carry more than 12 at a time. Easier to haul up only 6 after 100-150 feet. Mind you, i do some presets on the way up. So there could already be 6-10 in the tree before i start the first 12.
 
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