anyone here running an adjustable rope bridge?

WoodCutr

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ive got a notch sentinel, and im thinking of adding an adjustable rope bridge, any thoughts on this? how much bridge movement do you lose with the cam being in the way on one side?
 
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ive thought about using the roll n lock, seems very compact

I might mess around with the idea using the ropegrab off my flipline
 
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WoodCutr,
DM me your address and I’ll send you a Roll’n’Lok to try (as soon as I find where I put it!)
I had the Roll’n’Lok on my bridge for a while but found I hardly ever used it. Switched it out with my most recent bridge change. Almost no wear on it at all.
DM sent
 
Do you have dual bridge capacity?

I run two bridges, Shorter and Longer, for length, and for having two independent bridge connections--dual climbing systems on occasion, fwiw.

I can ascend and work off both bridges fine.
Short is sometimes better for spars.

Different lengths of bridge definitely has benefits. Dual bridges, one adjustable might be cluttered, or great.
 
When I switched away from the Roll’n’Lock it was to do bat plates and dual bridges. Haven’t looked back.

WoodCutr,
It should be there today - says out for delivery by 8pm today.
 
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I will pick it up tomorrow

I currently run dual bridges, still gonna run that setup but with one adjustable



thanks again for sending it, im excited to use it, ive got a job scheduled for tomorrow that im going to try it out on
 
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got mine set up, so far I love it, gonna go do a climb and see how it goes, should be nice for running climb line backup on spurs, I can suck it right down and stop my stuff from getting around my feet and knees
 
If you got one, they are sweet for hip thrusting or anything like that if you still do ddrt (or whatever they call it this week). You can run a long bridge, and then you just pull the tail, self tending hand over hand ascents sometimes. I love it so i can run a chest plate to hold my fat ass upright and do hands free rope walking lol. For that my climbing system is above everything by extending the bridge, so I'm always tied in with zero change overs, extra ascenders, or anything. Not to mention fine tuning exactly how far away your system is, or going super tight and not having the rope bridge part but an up front srt point, which i use for spar work or for attaching my fall arrest upper harness. You know, for those days when you gotta climb out of the lift :lol: that way you got both types of harness ready to go. I've done industrial rope access on the same setup too. I think i got a picture somewhere.
 
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they are sweet for hip thrusting or anything like that if you still do ddrt (or whatever they call it this week). You can run a long bridge, and then you just pull the tail, self tending hand over hand ascents
one of many reasons I decided to try it

about to head out and test it in a nice pecan tree
 
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tried mumfords Ziptie thing, didnt work for this, so dollar store paracord it is, not life support so its fine


edit: cant really see it in the pictures, but I do indeed have a stopper knot

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Looks good. We have 150 lb test zip-ties we use for breakaways on lanyards when dismantling sketchy trees while staying ‘on the crane hook’. I found that had the girth and strength to hold it well. I should have thought to toss one in when I mailed it ☹️
 
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when I did the ziptie trick, it was to the side of the paw, causing the rollnlock to bind up on the rope, the paracord keeps it centered, and has zero binding, im thinking of getting a lanyard keeper to hold the tail of my bridge, currently I just stick it thru a gear loop and be done with it
 
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Looks good. We have 150 lb test zip-ties we use for breakaways on lanyards when dismantling sketchy trees while staying ‘on the crane hook’. I found that had the girth and strength to hold it well. I should have thought to toss one in when I mailed it ☹️
update for you, still using it to this day but its on my dads saddle, I gave that one to him and bought a treemotion, havent felt the need for an adjustable bridge so much any more, if I do decide to get one then I will probably get an ART positioner to adjust it
also with more climb time I dont feel like I need weight on my bridge so much to be comfortable and balance, stay double tied in but my climb line sorta hangs around my thighs and knees now when im on a spar unless im rappelling
also on an akimbo and rook pulley so its much more compact then the ropewrench I was using
 
Fwiw, minimizing the distance of your climb line to saddle while maintaining some light taut-ness, in the emergency situation of accidentally cutting your lanyard to failure, should greatly increase the chance of keeping your spurs in the spar for the greatest amount of time and swinging into your climbing system, rather than a fall and very jolting stop.

If you are not using a choking system, the MRS may not catch you.

Did you see the recent video of the guy sliding to the ground, racing the tree top down?
 
Wow, talk about a "blast from the past!" I started reading this under the false assumption that it was a new thread, but in reality that is hardly the case. It's always nice when an old thread's stage two "comeback" burners begin to fire, accelerating its overall proverbial velocity through the 4-dimensional space that makes up the World Wide Web.

Anyways, I have an adjustable bridge. Initially it was way too long and I was afraid I'd trip on it or my saw might give it a nice "howdyado" and i'd fall off the end where my stopper used to be until I meet the ground. I currently use a Petzl Micrograb ropegrab device, which isn't as clunky as many similar style gabs, but not as compact as the Roll n Lock (what a great name for a product! Amirite?!) Anyways, it functions perfectly every time. I'm currently hammering out an issue regarding device orientation, which I plan on getting into on a separate thread.

PS - Does anyone else's browser remove paragraph cursor activity? Like, whenever I start a new paragraph, after about 30 seconds, the paragraph gets removed and my formatting gets phucked. It might be my browser. I'll clear my cache and try that out. Never happens on mobile, just desktop.
 
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Fwiw, minimizing the distance of your climb line to saddle while maintaining some light taut-ness, in the emergency situation of accidentally cutting your lanyard to failure, should greatly increase the chance of keeping your spurs in the spar for the greatest amount of time and swinging into your climbing system, rather than a fall and very jolting stop.

If you are not using a choking system, the MRS may not catch you.

Did you see the recent video of the guy sliding to the ground, racing the tree top down?
I use SRT on spars, cant recall the last time I used DRT for anything other than when I forgot my unicender or something and had to use 2 lines to have a double tie in while taking out some trees that fell on a house during a landslide
try to keep it somewhat tight, but yeah ive gotten to the point I dont "HAVE" to have it tight to be comfortable, not nearly as scared of gaffing out as I used to be, especially since I run the bucket truck as much as possible now lol
 
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Wow, talk about a "blast from the past!" I started reading this under the false assumption that it was a new thread, but in reality that is hardly the case. It's always nice when an old thread's stage two "comeback" burners begin to fire, accelerating its overall proverbial velocity through the 4-dimensional space that makes up the World Wide Web.
im having a moment myself lol, first time ive logged into this forum in months, and I had 2 notifications, yay lol
 
So why do folks need an adjustable bridge? What issue does it solve for you? Curious
 
It just makes some stuff really nice. When I'm working a spar a really tight bridge makes my attachment point right in the middle nice and tight, maximizing stability and making room for the hitch. When you adjust your bridge length you are fine tuning how mobile your twisting is, if you gotta twist a bit more to get something awkward you can let out some slack which loosens up pressure on your hips a bit (it's the little things in life lol). I have mine so it goes to a full arm length, so if i gotta ascend on doubled line i simply can pull the tail and up i go, no holding and tending. I'm top heavy so i run a chest box for my rope walker, but my climbing system is right in the way on a regular length bridge. But by simply extending my bridge the hitch/mechanical is now above the chest box where it's going to function properly. I didn't need to lanyard in or anything to do it either, just unweight it momentarily since i use the roll and lock. That's probably the best one for me, the joy of a rope walker setup that's hands free should be experienced by all at least once.


Also makes getting your harness on much easier, especially with heavy clothes, since you can open it up it's really easy to step into. I also have a shoulder strap fall arrest thing that clips to the rated rear connection on my cougar and then clips to my bridge ring (swivel for me but i leave the swivel out to attach my system), and by cinching my bridge it adjusts the whole thing. It has the front connection points for rope access type work, "shown" in the very dated pictures of me doing some welding work on rope. That was also my setup on removals when running big saws, i would run the tree with the chest box to work the limbs going up and down, but when you got into the big wood you don't need to go up anymore. So you swap the chest box out for the shoulder straps, click click cinch, and now you can carry a big saw and have the tightest bridge setup for balance and saftey. This stuffs all a personal thing for everybody but for me it's a ton of awesome in a couple feet of rope, a roll n lock, and a handful of zip ties.


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So why do folks need an adjustable bridge? What issue does it solve for you? Curious
spar work for me
kept mine a normal bridge length, only ever shortened it half way or all the way when I wanted to get my system up tight
I quit being a baby and dont have to lean into both systems as much so its not that big of a deal
 
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