Anybody use this technique?

[DMc]

Just wondering if any of you guys use this technique. When I see a heavy head leaner, I always look to see if I can accomplish this. I found if I can remove the heavy head, on many tree species the wood is tough enough to hold on the hinge. And if I cut the appropriate-sized face cut I can get the trunk section to stop horizontal to the ground.

This allows old man me a very convenient bucking height. It also impacts the ground less.

Dave

 

[sotc]

I try it alot but only occasionally get it to work. If I can tip the tree I won't climb it to remove the top, I just try it as a whole tree

 

[DMc]

Ahhh, if you want this to work, I found you pretty much have to get the heavy head off the tree. The reaction wood that the tree has developed to support this will create a stronger hinge than normal. Without removing the top, you will have as much chance of stopping the log as with any other full tree...which is not much.

Dave

 

[brendonv]

I don't typically try for it per say, but its def. nice when it happens.

 

[Stumper]

I do that frequently. Whether it will work is tree size and species dependant. I won't top out a tree or do a bunch just to make it work but when it is handy to try a slow drop onto a strong hinge... you betcha.

 

[Old Monkey]

I do it. I find it is a good way to learn how the different properties of trees. I do it a lot with small vertical trees, by using multiple extremely narrow face cuts and pushing the tree over. I used to wonder if I could make a pine tree loop over like a candy cane to the point where guys on the ground could just grab and cut the dangling pieces.

 

[sotc]

Showoff

 

[stehansen]

It looks like it's doing the limbo.

 

[Stumper]

I hope that isn't Darin's typical wood.

 

[Old Monkey]

Are you suggesting my timber isn't taut? My lumber is too limber? My spar is spare?

 

[DMc]

That's cool, Darin.

Dave

 

[cory]

Darin, that's a great picture. I've never gone that far with the technique, I'll have to try it.

Dave, saving work is important to you, but isn't it more work to remove the head than it would be to have to buck the log on the ground instead of at waist level?

 

[gf beranek]

Great, Darin!

I've done the same with limbs to lay them on the eves of roofs and fences, and then cut the butt loose. Saves crashing the limb on either.

Great technique when you can use it.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Yes, you don't often get the opportunity to do it. Cool trick.

 

[DMc]

Dave, saving work is important to you, but isn't it more work to remove the head than it would be to have to buck the log on the ground instead of at waist level?

Good point and viable question. Like I said when I get to a job I assess whether I can do this or not. The pros and cons are part of the assessment. For me climbing is easy, bending over and moving large wood is hard.

On this particular tree there was a small pump house that needed to be avoided so the top had to go anyway. Perfect situation for this technique, as if I had dropped the trunk section it would have sunk into the very soft ground. For me this was faster and easier.

Dave

 

[sotc]

Are you suggesting my timber isn't taut? My lumber is too limber? My spar is spare?

I beleive the words and the picture are to big an opening for me to take advantage of so i'll zip it

 

[Old Monkey]

Yes, you don't often get the opportunity to do it. Cool trick.

Its probably only been necessary once or twice. I make excuses to use it to get better at it. I like trying new things when it doesn't matter.

 

[Gord]

I've done it a bunch on small austrian pine spars, haven't got it to work with much else.

 

[Tree Reb]

I did it today actually on a medium size pine, but for a different reason. I just didn't want the butt to hit the driveway.

I've done it a bit with Liquid Ambers [Sweet Gum?] as well, not much else.

 

[darkstar]

We do that every chance we get , customers love it.
I find you can get most spars to do that if you set a pull line and use extra pulling force.
But it doesent look as cool.

 

[chucky]

The only question I have on the technique is, since it’s broad-leaved tree (willow) and the stronger reaction wood is tension wood on the upper side of the trunk, instead of compression wood on the underside like a conifer, then why is it holding on the hinge?

 

[DMc]

The only question I have on the technique is, since it’s broad-leaved tree (willow) and the stronger reaction wood is tension wood on the upper side of the trunk, instead of compression wood on the underside like a conifer, then why is it holding on the hinge?

I really don't know.

I am suspicious that it is partially because that while gymnosperms and angiosperms create reaction wood cellular changes on different sides of the tree, they will both produce more wood on the bottom side and less on the top; creating an offset pith.

I think the lay of the wood fibers might have something to do with its "apparently" better holding ability.

Dave

 

[Nails]

You bet, that is the sweetest way to cut wood, waiste level.

 

[Ax-Man]

DM, Oh ya, makes bucking so much easier on the back.

Darin, that is so cool. I swiped your pics for my jump drive

I have put four notches in a leaner to get it to go the right way but nothing like that. I guess I am not a creative thinker to do what you did. Excellent work.