Another Tip - Solitary Leveling

Al Smith

Mac Daddy
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
Messages
14,307
Location
Northern Ohio
I have no idea who or if this would apply to anybody but here goes .So you want to shoot grade elevation with a sight level and you have no helper to hold the story pole .A bucket of fine stone will get you close enough .It would be different if you really need some accuracy like a foundation line but on a rough stone drive it's not that big of a deal .
This is the pad for my shipping container .I knew it had a slope which proved to 8 inches .Not a big deal I can adjust that with blocking .2 foot pieces of rail road ties and treated lumber


DSCN0540[1].jpg (242.6 KB
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0540[1].jpg
    DSCN0540[1].jpg
    242.6 KB · Views: 77
Good idea man, i was always a fan of the laser ones too, those are designed to use solo.
 
I have a wheel rim here some place I welded a short piece of pipe in the center to hold the stick, probably never find it if I need it.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
Now this is funny .I had a block layer with a tender laying up a foundation for me because I didn't have the time .They couldn't get their laser to work so I set up the sight level .trammed it in ,ready to go .The dip shits had no idea how to use it .I had to shoot it in for them .Imagine that an electrician to boot .Younger generation ,I just don't know .
 
Oh i agree the old school sight transit is still more accurate for less money, and i use them often. But certain tools are awesome for certain work, and a laser with a beeping reciever is the easiest way to shoot grade. I actually prefer the sight ones for large far off piping layouts, or even a water level, which is much more accurate and even cheaper.
 
Now this is funny .I had a block layer with a tender laying up a foundation for me because I didn't have the time .They couldn't get their laser to work so I set up the sight level .trammed it in ,ready to go .The dip shits had no idea how to use it .I had to shoot it in for them .Imagine that an electrician to boot .Younger generation ,I just don't know .

Sure you do, Al. You know exactly. I do too, fwiw :D.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
Modern methods certainly are more easy than old school methods .This is a level not a transit because it has no azimuth .I got it cheap but had to have it factory adjusted because evidently someone dropped it at some time .The only thing I've ever used it for is grade elevations .Much else I'd have go to You Tube or something to figure it out .I did however use it to lay out my shop using a plumb bob and it came out okay because the foundation is dead on square .
I can't imagine laying out the transcontinental rail road or George Washington laying out DC .They must have had total recall because I couldn't remember all the formulas .
 
On the subject of shipping containers, some settling may occur, then the doors stick.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
That's why you have to have them level I suppose .I've got the blocks cut and if I figured it correctly it should be within a 1/4" .For right now I'll set it down on 4 blocks ,one on each corner .Then I'll probably set three more on each side .I rolled that #304 stone with a small asphalt roller .If it does settle I've got about dozen hydraulic jacks ,maybe more if I can find them .I think with a big pad they could be lifted with a 6 ton farm jack by going through the hook points .
 
Just remember that they are designed to sit flush on ALL bottom surfaces.
I have heard many horror stories of folks building houses with them and having problems.
If you are sitting one down as storage prob just fine.

Depends on how much stuff you put in them :lol:

Nature abhors a vacuum. Every see a storage shed that is not stuffed? Just wait, it'll happen...
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #15
I'd never consider building a house .From what I read the Chinese spray the decking with some nasty stuff to ward off the bugs .I also heard the whole thing is lead based paint .It's just furniture at least for the moment .I doubt much over 2 tons if that .
You have to remember these things are built for ocean shipment on an open deck .One site said a 40 footer would float like 50 days .About 1900 sank last year .I suppose else somebody comes alone and fishes out the floaters . I can't hardly see a big giant container ship doing it .

Now here's a kicker .I think it takes 9 to 11 days to cross the Pacific to some west coast port .I think 4 days after the container is unloaded the merchandise is sitting on the shelf of some Walmart store .I find that amazing .
 
That is nuts. As far as jacking it up, you could always hunt down a railroad jack too. Hell I bet you already have one lol
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
It wouldn't take one of those heavy things which actually is one thing I don't have .If it were on blocks a three ton floor jack with a big pad would do it .It 's not like you are lifting the whole thing all at once .I've got a ten ton floor jack but it would take a hi lift to move it .That thing will lift the whole rear end of a D4 Caterpillar like it was a feather .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
To me it's just a less expensive option than building another shed or something .While it's been kind of fun doing the prep work for this thing it's also been a pain in the buttocks .Reviving a 65 year old bulldozer that had not been even started in like 14 years for one .As I recall also a 200 pound rail road tie didn't seem to be quite as heavy years ago as it is today .

I'll be happy when it's over because this project has seriously hampered my beer drinking time .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #21
I'm sitting here cogitating a contingency plan in case the trucker can't place this thing where I want it .It weighs around 8400 pounds ,I'm not certain if a 9600 pound bull dozer will move it or not .

I might have to get creative and rig up a snatch block or two and tug it with a 1" nylon line .That's going to take some thought and a lot of rigging and time .I've got a lot of trees for anchor points,I'll get it one way or another .Thank heavens it's flat land .
I could probably roll it on 6" round fence posts and planks but that would take month of Sundays .That will be the last resort .
 
Those guys are pretty good usually , mebbee just a fine tune on the unload w heavy line and Dozer , the Dowel method would be my second choice ahead of trees and light line , slow for sure but the Egyptians plus Dowels plus Slave Labor equalled success.
 
Lol. I had a guy that worked for me who used to chuck a dowel under anything he could to 'roll it'. I nicknamed him the Egyptian.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #24
I saw a rigging contractor roll and ramp a 200 ton transformer with a 10,000 pound high lift about 800 feet .That thing was so heavy it broke the down the ties in the railroad siding in the factory .They needed fixed any way .That guy laid down oak planks and wooden rollers Oh I can rig ,no problem but I'd rather do it the easy way.

In other news while waiting for that thing I took the time to lube the dozer .Track rollers etc .Found two loose rollers ,not good .You cock a roller on a track you have a big problem .Took a torch to heat the nuts and tighten .Glad I caught it .Should have checked that after I first revived it ,got lucky .
 

Similar threads

Back
Top