What saw should I get to replace the Stihl 200T?

Especially considering how batteries have around 1/20th or 1/50th the energy density of gas. Though electric motors will only use as much power as is needed, so when you just rev an electric with no load, it uses almost no energy while a gas saw consumes a fixed amount of gas every turn if the engine whether or not that energy is being used to cut wood.
 
I've got a couple of the older 335's ,previous model to the 338 .The balance is great but it lacks the power of a 200T .A couple of the tree services tried them out as a cheaper alternative to the 020/200T but the oilers failed in less than a year .It's only an $8 fix but you have to field strip the saw to get to the pump .
 
True story I bought a 540 when they first came out here, can't remember exactly when. But it sucked so hard I resisted smashing it with a hammer and traded it in on a 880. Obviously not to fill the same need. It was my one and only husky in the last 20 plus years. If I'm recalling right it had some goofy ass procedure for 'setting' the auto tune. Keep it in a cut for minutes straight while spinning around three times on one leg or something? And if you didn't hold your mouth quite right?........well..........repeat as nescessary.
 
I have the 201 TC. It was ok but not as responsive. I done the muffler mod and timing advance and it actually came alive. I'm close to saying I actually like it now. I just got my old 020T completely rebuilt so it's my main saw right now. I also have a 200T that the airbox tab went through the engine after about 8 tanks. New top end. It's sitting in the shop waiting to go. I'll definitely run the older ones as long as I can keep some on hand. I also have the Echo 355T. It's been a great saw. Used it for about 2 years intermittently. Never any trouble.
 
Somebody has a "pre-owned" (but mint, it says) 200T on eBay for $1999, buy-it-now, PLUS $18 for shipping.....makes me want to sell a couple.....if a mint one will fetch that much, imagine what a NEW one is worth!
 
I'm still running an 020t, and the 200t that I bought used from Willard, the 201t I bought new from the guy who had two just hasn't made me jump up and down with excitement, it warms the shelf a lot.
My 150t met her match the other day in 12" elm in compression...poor wee thing was like 'whatcha DOIN' to me?' I had to finish with the 200t
 
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  • #60
I may get one. I do have a Husky T540XP II on order. Thought I'd give it a try. Been a Stihl man exclusively previous to the fire that burned down my house... Do you have the Echo? Care to share your experience/likes/dislikes??? Are they using Zama carbs???
 
I have had two, used Echos, one cheap, one free. Not great, but they cut. The 2511t, is a little hornet.

There is an Echo 2511t thread in the Chainsaw subforum.

I have one, stock. My 193t feels like a boat-anchor. My 200t like a tank by comparison.

My take is that in residential tree work, climbing cutting makes up a small % of the day. 10-15% slower cutting (made up numbers) for a small portion of the cutting of the day, which makes up a minority of the day, is worth it for less strain on elbows, wrists, and shoulders.

Ported will rip.

Narrow kerfs are considerably less cutting that 'normal' width kerfs.


A 200T will give you more speed for more speed-sensitive cuts.
Those are rare for me, or I cut it with a different cut (Coos Bay release on a large limb to land it flat, rather than a super fast snap-cut).
 
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  • #62
Hey guy's/gals, I bought a Husky T540XP II and started it up today. I haven't cut anything with it yet, but I'm impressed with the torq and HP. This sucker is right up with the old 200T. I'll keep you updated on it as I cut down some burned up trees on my property...
 
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  • #64
I know the 200T very well, so I will be able to give an honest comparison. Already, I like the 'captive' bar nut and other screws. I've lost bar nuts on Stihl before...I like the threaded fuel caps a little better than the Stihl caps. With the Stihl caps, I've snapped them in 'off kilter' before and lost all my gas and oil...A couple of times. But, we'll see after I cut some wood. Also the chain that came with the saw was one of those 'double-raker', anti-kickback chains. I don't like those. The dealer gave me a better chisel-chain; Oregon. We'll see how that goes too... I do like the Stihl yellow-dot chains...
 
The flippy caps issues are the o-rings loose their resiliency after a while .Before I retired I stocked up on them from an almost unlimited supply but I can't remember the exact size .You could probably Google it and find them on flea bay for next to nothing .

Hot dang I'm good .Stihl 9645-948-7734 .o ring ,70 durometer ,nitrile 25 x 3.5 .50 for about 10 bucks flea bay .$1.89 a pop North Wood Saw
 
Well some people buy the whole cap at around 10 bucks a pop .For like 20 cents a pop put half a dozen o-rings in your tool box .Takes about a minute to pop one off and change rather than fight that SOB trying to get it to seal and break the cap in the process .I broke one myself early one .
 
They stay fine when you run Alkylate fuel.

Just saying:D
 
Why do you think I posted that?

Putting the US down as per usual :lol:
 
I'll just keep buying this for $3.59-3.79 a gallon. ;) Same for the boat too.

efreepumpp.jpg
 
Yah , Federal fuel law allows up to 5% ethanol without posting ... 6-14% must be labeled as 10% ethanol ... independent testing has revealed up to 20% !!! Ethanol coming from 10% pumps ... In a vehicle I can see using it .. In My ported saws ... nope ... also most guys don’t realize that the ethanol doesn’t likey the mix oil and doesn’t blend like “pure” gas or alkylate fuel ...
 
Klotz makes a lot of different 2-stroke oils ! I have my preferred mix which performs fabulously at 50:1
 
Yep my Klotz KL200 stays mixed with ethanol. I checked that with their tech after I had quit the racing days.
Never had to worry about separation back then before I could get non ethanol.

Some of their others do and some dont. I found the original the only one I would run.

klotz-techno.jpg
 
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