Rigging rings

cory

Tree House enthusiast
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I bought this 'rig and ring' recently http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=1923&item=9012 , used it a lot for the first time today removing 2 large dead ash, virtually everything had to be roped down, it went very well and smooth . I've always been a huge fan of blocks http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=235&item=139 as they are bulletproof, eliminate virtually all wear on the rope, and rope retrieval between cuts is usually blazing fast and easy which lends itself to our preferred style of rigging- smaller, faster, more cuts rather than slower, fewer, larger cuts- easy on the ground crew and fast.

Pluses of the rings for us are: they're light and easy to use and quick to set up in most situations, they are pretty easy on the rope, and they have a bit more friction compared to blocks and since my ninja rope guy has hydraulic winches for arms and prefers to use just leather gloves as his friction device, he can more often use these with no porty.

About the only disadvantage is rope retrieval is a bit slower due to the added friction. One other dis is when setting it up on a stem where the length of the device is a tad long for the stem diameter- if there is no crotch to hang it on, I haven't figured a way to shorten it up just a bit to better cinch on the stem.

Anyone else have experience with these? I was thinking I should get a longer one with 1 or 2 large rings spliced to the end and just set it up snug on the stem using standard cow hitch same way you hang a block. Thanks.
 
Looks nice. I've been using a Safebloc exclusively for the last year and love it. I did buy a couple of rings on a sling but have yet to use it. One hole in the Safebloc is the same as one ring. I would like ti have a set like that. Lighter for climbing with and pulling up on a rope.
 
I got outta the biz before that ring and ring stuff... cool, I like it but I just always used blocks of varying sizes. I'm sure I'd be using them if I was still rocking today.
 
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  • #4
Agreed.
 
Criss-cross, applesauce










That is, a half-hitch after a wrap around the spar... Thank August. He used it in a video.
 
AND remote setting, remote retrieval.

If you have a single ring (or double) on a sling you can hang it on a bare spar. I like the slings with eyes on one end.
 
A girth hitch/ prussic will work on a spar, but take up a lot of rope for better and worse, depending.
 
I’ve got a few Cory. I spliced up two ultra ring slings and they are my go to for redirects or small to medium sized terminal points. Two on dead eyes that come out from time to time and a rig n ring set up that rarely gets to play. I also carry a half dozen mini blocks these days plus a coupe or three of the big boys. My safebloc has ridden in my Tahoe for months. I’m still mad at it so it doesn’t get to see any fun. I really like the rings for redirects and for fishingpoling those tall bowed bastards.
 
I got a biggish notch ring on a 5/8 whoopie sling, and an ultra sling w ring on the way. I want one more, a big one on a 3/4" ultra sling then I hope to only use a block for lifting.

What turned you off the safebloc, Rich?
 
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  • #12
Cris cross

That is, a half-hitch after a wrap around the spar... Thank August. He used it in a video.

Not enough length for that, but too much too stay on the spar without resting on a stub etc
 
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  • #13
I see a lot of redirect references, aren't they commonly used as the main lowering point?
 
You need different length slings for different size trees for POW or blocks. Same thing...couple lengths of Rig and Rings.


Good redirects and good main lowering points.

Lesser Rope bend radius than blocks, but you've seen people put logs onto rings in videos all the time. Often people say to use two rings for the terminal rigging point.

Wide cheek-plates on blocks prevents the rope from being pinched by the spar and sheave. Be aware that the rope isn't getting pinched when loaded, like happened to Rich.

Aerial Friction Brakes have bigger cheek-plates than the original BMS Belay Spool to help with this situation.
 
It doesn't. That's a common misconception.

The Bend Radius on the TreeStuff Aerial Friction Brake and BMS Belay Spools is bad, too. Very useful in the right situations.

Bend-radius on half-hitches and Running Bowlines are terrible. A splice with a hook or shackle would be the best, I think, as people sometimes do with Eye-and-eye crane slings. Way too much work and overkill.




There are Bend-right rings with truly increased bend radius.






Heat dissipation is increased with two rings, I think.
 
Heat dissipation / heat sink, I agree. We can add a little bit more friction between the medium plane of both rings, but I have no idea of how much.
 
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  • #19
So I've been using the rigging rings steadily since the OP. So further impressions here based on further experience is that Blocks are the cat's ass for big removals, imo. Blocks are so fast, so smooth, so rope friendly, so quick on the rope retrieve. Rings are light and fast to set up but if you are roping a lot and some of it is big, they fook the rope and flatten it, and rope retrieval is meaningfully slower. I'm back to blocks for anything other than quick, small removals.
 
Not surprised, Cory. If we wanted to dig back into old posts, I bet I posited these outcomes when the rigging rings first came out years ago :D.
 
I could never see myself using them on average day to day operations, and use blocks. The lack of midline attachment is a big turn off for me.
 
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  • #23
I'm down.
 
I do a lot with a high rigging point, rig x amount of limbs out and done. XRR'S are great for that knowing I can remote retrieve them onto dirt (controled remote retrieve if I cared to do that over any surface).

Have a block in the truck all the time if rings aren't faster and easier.
 
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