husky 576 kill switch not working

cory

Tree House enthusiast
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It was intermittent for a bit but now it won't shut off at all. Choke to kill.

The saw is less than 6 months old, is kept clean in carb area regularly with air. No wires appear to be damaged or disconnected.

What say you saw wrenchers? I don't want to drive 25 miles to dealer for something he can probably fix in 5 minutes and if I knew what i was doing could probably fix in 15 minutes.

Thanks!
 
Husqv kill switches have always been weak. I buy them a half dozen at a time for my 372's. I've tried fixing a few but it's difficult to get the little metal tabs bent just right to make contact at the correct position. And the casing is plastic and not designed to be taken apart and reassembled. I don't own any 576 saws but I'm guessing they are similar.

However I have been successful in fixing the bad kill switches on the Stihl MS150. On those the ground screw comes loose and strips out. On my last one I extended the wire and put an eyelet on it connected to a different ground screw. Works perfect now.
 
I haven't run huskys for decades but when I did my experience was as Brian described. The switch itself was crap. Replace it.
 
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The "switch" is basically just a lever. The electric part of the system is down the line from the lever. Dang. Dealer. Waaaaa:whine:

Thanks for the info though
 
Italian mortorcycle manufacturers did that for decades.
Made really fine engines and skimped on the electronics.
 
Same as Skwerl , go through many cheap switches on my 372's. Now stock extras , but in a pinch you can split the cheapshit plastic and re-align the electrodes. I always wonder if I'm too hard on them , with all that starting and stopping.
 
Maybe that's why one feller tends to leave the saw idling for hours, in fear of croaking the kill switch. Or more likely because it's harder to re-start on a cold day!
 
The kill circuit is a grounding of coil. It has no switch. This system has been used on many other saws thru the years.
It could be you don't get contact between cable on lever and plate on air filter bracket.
I changed a few coils on newer HVA saws as the circuit inside coil is busted.
But its more common with contact and cables.
 
FINALLY! I registered yesterday just to reply to this thread and it took until now to get approved! The 576 kill switch consists of 2 wires, one blue coming from the coil, and a black wire that goes to ground. They both sit inside a plastic holder and when you turn the switch to off it completes a circuit killing the coil.
 
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Well, for now anyway, the Treehouse fixed my saw.

Thanks all for the responses. Magnus' and Huntaholic posts got me thinking about the contact area. As mentioned in the OP, it is kept clean in there, but on a hunch I decided to spray alcohol onto the contact area. Fired it up and tested it 4x, worked perfect. :drink:
 
Well, for now anyway, the Treehouse fixed my saw.

Thanks all for the responses. Magnus' and Huntaholic posts got me thinking about the contact area. As mentioned in the OP, it is kept clean in there, but on a hunch I decided to spray alcohol onto the contact area. Fired it up and tested it 4x, worked perfect. :drink:
What happens is those little end terminals, especially on the ground wire get sloppy in the plastic holder and fail to make connection. I will take a small screwdriver and open them up a tad to fit tighter in the plastic housing. Ive got 4 or 5 of the 575/576 saws right now and have worn out at least that many more lol
 
The idea with contact surface like this is not bad, but it has its downsides.
The contact can get bad even if its clean from erosion or corrosion.
A thin layer of oil will do the trick to!
 
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