Idea for a small chip truck, any thoughts?

Jonny

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So I've been bouncing this idea around in my head, trying to think of why it wouldn't work or unexpected flaws that may present themselves after I'm invested in it already.

Pretty simple, I'd like to remove the bed from a single rear wheel F350 and replace it with this dump trailer body as well as use the dump hoist that comes with the trailer. I'd have to build a base frame then I think that this could come together nicely.

https://sleequipment.com/hydraulic-...8pp3CAFEv85loxpzqQs7hsawmQsqWaExoCTGwQAvD_BwE

Trailer is 2700$ Has stake pockets along the top and front corners to easily make a permanent or removable top. Not sure what gauge steel this is made of either, but could always reinforce it.

Check the link for better pics.


sam_5244.jpg
 
It would work. Maybe talk to a couple local trailer shops and see what it might cost to have them fab up something comparable on your truck. The frame and axles are a big part of the cost of building a dump trailer so no sense buying that part if you aren't going to use it.

Or on the other hand, the trailer part would make an excellent equipment trailer for hauling your (future) mini loader or stump grinder.

Edit: I looked at the link and the bed includes steak pockets! mmm I'm hungry! Medium rare, please! :dur:
 
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  • #6
Right, wonder if they'd sell the box and hydraulics without the trailer. Can't hurt to ask them. I think they build these to order so it should be do-able.
 
To save a few $$ ok but it sounds like it's built pretty lightweight, 3500lb axel. Plus all the fab cost for the retrofit might be a wash.
 
True, for a chip box you probably want 10ga. steel minimum. Figure out what the box will weigh fully loaded and make sure your hydraulics and pump are rated for at least 33% more than that.
 
I've seen those dump trailers dump a stuffed full load of fresh hackberry. I find most trailers tend to reach their safe axle weight and dump limits when filled with wood up to the top of the original metal railing. It's usually when you fill them over the top, or really pack it in it tetris style that there's a problem dumping or bending axles.
 
True, for a chip box you probably want 10ga. steel minimum. Figure out what the box will weigh fully loaded and make sure your hydraulics and pump are rated for at least 33% more than that.

I think 10ga is overkill for a chip box walls but the floor in 10ga is a must. I built my box walls out of 3/16 (close to 10ga) diamond plate and 14ga diamond plate and is holding up just fine, floor is 10ga plate. We also haul logs in the same box so I wanted a little more beef down low. Diamond plate has a slightly higher yield psi that flat sheet at the same size.


Personally Johnny I would not go the route of retrofitting the dump trailer to your truck but find a mason body dumper and rework that to fit your truck.
 
Those appear to be 4 foot sides on that, and if that's the case, and you used 10 ga., that would be over 700 pounds just in sheet metal, not even counting the structural frame for the bed and sides, the subframe, hinges, door, scissor mechanism, hydraulic cylinder, or pump. A single rear wheel 350 will have about a 4000 pound load limit to put that in perspective. A tandem dump truck will use 3/16 or 1/4, sometimes 3/8 if they do a bunch of demo, for the floor, the rest will be 10 guage, with wooden topsides to replace when they get bashed up. The problem with using a small truck to build a dump truck isn't building it strong enough, it's making it light enough to use. When i was right out of high school, my buddy had a 79 f250 that had a dump kit on the normal bed. We got a couple cases of beer, a bunch of steel, and built a flatbed for it. It was awesome for our little landscaping company, until we did the math and realised that you could simply hire a tandem for everything cheaper anyways.

While converting that trailer would work, it will be far from ideal. First off, some things are certain sizes because they have to be. Anyone who is building a single, 3500 pound axle dump trailer is building these things to sell to homeowners who want a truck to get mulch or gravel a couple times a year but can't justify owning a truck. The hinges and dump scissor will likely be incredibly cheaply done, likely with schedule 40 pipe from lowes or something. The subframe will be cheaply built, but will be as wide as the trailer for strength and stability, unlike a dump truck to be as wide as the truck frame, with extra support by the back hinge.

You can definitely build or maybe even buy a premade dump, which their respective costs. If you really want one on a single rear wheel, it can be done, but it will be lacking compared to a dually. I would make the sides and floor with plywood to cut down weight, and try to keep it as light as possible on the rest of the build as well. If you are looking to spend that kind of money, i would even consider using an insert. Then you could pull it out and sell it at a later date if you move up in truck size. My .02, from someone who welds for a living.
 
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  • #13
Thanks for the responses and advice.
For under 2700$ I doubt these are heavy duty. Just thought it kinda looked like a pre-made chip box.
I'll probably end up with a stake dump and build a chip box on that, much easier to build and won't damage it if I wanna throw chunks of maple in it.

That aluminum box is a beauty!
 
F150, no less! Now if you had 2 of those aluminum bins, side by side for independent dumping, took off the tailgate and had a pin going across the back that they could pivot on for dumping, that would be truly resourceful & functional!
 
This time I gave up on the unit's conversion. :X
I can't find a definite answer about gauge. The thickness isn't even the same between steel, galvanized and aluminum sheets ! What sort of unit is that :?
When will you use the metric system?
 
I would love to see the metric system here in the States. I was all about it in the third grade when they tried to introduce it but for some reason people could not wrap their head around it. I don't know why.
We, or at least I do, feel your frustration here in the States we have imperial and metric on the same vehicle. Do you have any idea how much of a bitch it is crawling out form under a truck many times just to find the right socket or lug around two sets of tools every time you need to wrench on something. I don't get the gauge measurement thing either or why it's used.
 
Funny! I prefer imperial, but I always like bucking the trends.

Re: gauges. Throw in wire! Haha

I have a set of gauges for sheet and galv, with decimal thickness.... Somewhere. Come to think of it I have one of those conversion books with it too.
 
It does create issues with American machines over here re. bolt sizes and the like.

I still think in miles, and think of height of people in feet, but I’m from the generation during which it changed, so there’s some residual stuff in my head.
 
Yep, I've had to become measurement bilingual...but centimeters have disappeared, everying is mills or metres over here!
I had a boss once who was American PhD MIT mechanical engineer with a vast grasp of trivia, apparently the US was supposed to start the change to metric in the 1700's, they decided to form a committee to investigate the switch...still investigating I suppose!
 
Single rear wheel chip trucks can develop the death wobble while driving under load on the hwy...
 
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