How to fix 661 stripped bar stud

Nutball

TreeHouser
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Apr 4, 2015
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Mt. Juliet, TN
A bar stud on the 661 that's always been a problem backing out when loosening the bar nut finally stripped the case hole today.

Is there a bigger compatible stud I could tap for and use such as an 880 stud? Should I clean the hole and JB Weld it back in? Helicoil? Throw it away and buy a Husqy?

Either way the next stud is going to have some strong thread lock on it. I had to lock the 150 stud earlier this year.
 
I have fixed oil tanks twice successfully with JB Weld but never the hole the stud backs to. P.S. they were Husky's , I'd still try as that stuff cures pretty strong.
 
A bar stud on the 661 that's always been a problem backing out when loosening the bar nut finally stripped the case hole today.

A stitch, in time, saves 9.

Over the years, I've found out that when things aren't working as designed, stop. The consequential headaches are too much.

Sorry. that sucks. The whole saw not running over a minor mechanical thing.
 
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  • #7
Yea, I kept thinking I should thread lock it. Oh well. It used to not get used for several months because the tensioner was broken. I fixed that a month ago when I found out we had a 661.
 
I may be mistaken but if memory serves you use a Stihl 056 bar stud which is 10 mm on the saw side and 8 mm on the bar side . # 1115 664 2405
 
There are other options of repairing failed threads .One used by Roush racing as well as Ford Motor company is Time Serts .Unlike a heli coil these things use a forming tap to deform the internal base threads which provides an insert that can't back out .Roush installs them on every Ford engine they modify providing a stronger thread base than could be possible with just threading the aluminum of the engine block .
The draw back on using them for just several repairs being the installation drills and taps are costly as compared to a tap drill and tap for a 10 mm hole using an over sized bar stud .In my case it's not a question of if I have them but rather which tool box are they in .
 
It's been my experience that the root cause of this whole issue is over tightening bar nuts in the first place.
 
I've never stripped one , even on saws I bought used ... Worst most unrepairable ever was a fish box full of frozen Winter's emergency sand was loose and moving around the truck bed , sure enough smashes direct sideways on to my old 162 and broke the whole wall the bar studs go through into pieces. Saw ran fine , until then.
 
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  • #16
I shouldn't have to worry about them even coming loose. When it came loose on a new 150 I almost couldn't tension the chain or take it apart. And then they don't include a place to grab the stud with a wrench to tighten it.
 
Or the fact that Stihl continues to use threaded studs that can strip.

No. overtightening of barnuts is the only way I've experienced this issue. When I sold my business I think I had 26 stihls? I still have four. I've owned countless over my life and I've never found this to be much of an issue at all. As I said before. It's been my experience that overtightening of barnuts is the root cause of this issue.

I also never ever had one strip and require repair. I only ever recall having one come loose and simply reseating it.
 
And you can use jbweld as locktite too, a badass mechanic taught me that the other week...
 
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  • #19
The 661 never gets much use anyway, but I finally got around to working on it and I have another question. Do these bar studs look correct? It's hard for me to find pictures online, but I get the feeling they should both have the thick/wide middle.

On the left is the rear one that stripped out. The right one I found was also loose. The left one almost cut it's way through the clutch cover.

DSC09933 (640x629).jpg
 
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  • #20
I took a look at the oiler, it doesn't look easy to mod :( I like the Husqvarna oilers with just a flat ended shaft that can more easily be ground on, plus disassembly is easier.
 
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  • #21
Got it fixed. I forgot how powerful it is. It blew through a slightly rotten 40"x28" maple stump today pretty quickly with 28" square skip chain and 8t sprocket.
 
The 661 never gets much use anyway, but I finally got around to working on it and I have another question. Do these bar studs look correct? It's hard for me to find pictures online, but I get the feeling they should both have the thick/wide middle.

On the left is the rear one that stripped out. The right one I found was also loose. The left one almost cut it's way through the clutch cover.

View attachment 90297
The stud on the left is the old model, I have it on the 066 and 440. It sucks because the bar, especially the long ones, keeps falling from the little collar on the middle during a chain change. I think the stud on the right is the new model, with a big collar (more stable) and the pointy nose (easier to put the nut on it). It seems to me that I saw it (briefly) on my ms462 with the captive nuts on the clutch cover. I don't know on which saw's model the change was made.
 
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  • #23
I saw the thick collared one on a 461, so it's on those newer large saws.

So, anyway, I did the whole repair with a hand drill which went worse than I had hoped, but it actually turned out very well. I used a step drill to help drill a straight hole, slightly boring a shallow hole just larger than the tap drill to align the tap drill. The tap drill was extremely sharp and cut well, but would try to grab too much to fast. So, it was a hole drilled using like 50+ stalled attempts. It tapped easily. I thoroughly washed the oil tank with dish soap and a jet nozzle on a hose to get all the oil and metal shavings out to avoid damaging the oiler, and to get a good clean surface for the thread locker.
 
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