Hitch Hiker X

9 mil epi on Yale 11.7 ropes with 5 wraps is pretty sweet for my 195 lbs self. Best combo I've used, tends great, sets when tied snug, smooth descent.
 
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  • #27
I'm still using some 9mm Arb Pro that I bought a long time ago. Many hitch cords work well with the HH just remember to change to a fresh one when it starts getting finicky. The hitch cords performance goes downhill well before it becomes unsafe to use.
 
I'm still using some 9mm Arb Pro that I bought a long time ago. Many hitch cords work well with the HH just remember to change to a fresh one when it starts getting finicky. The hitch cords performance goes downhill well before it becomes unsafe to use.

I remember Dave telling me this. I have a fresh cord to go put on with my new rope.

I never can remember is 3' is enough hitch cord, so I ordered 4' . I had a big tail on one side. I untied the cord and moved the excess tail to the other end to reveal fresh cord. Didn't really do a "before" and "after" test.
Seemed better, but that was also my preconceived hope.
 
I'm still using some 9mm Arb Pro that I bought a long time ago. Many hitch cords work well with the HH just remember to change to a fresh one when it starts getting finicky. The hitch cords performance goes downhill well before it becomes unsafe to use.

Have you been able to find anymore arbpro?
Love that cord
 
Back to the quickie...two separate actions is definitely not enough for primary life support IMO...remember when I posted about having a triple action biner roll open on me?
I'm still on my HH1...about to buy an HH2 now I made some $$$ over the summer.
11.5 Tachyon Ash with beeline...4wrap one braid...prob 120-125lbs all up including gear!
No pulley needed now with the smaller rope

Just seen the 'wrist rocket'...I like the look of that, going to get one of those for sure.
 
Bermy I totally agree about 2 distinct movements not being enough. How do you feel about this? It takes 2 movements to unlock a carabiner then the third movement actually pushes the biner open. The quickie seems to be the same way. It takes 2 unlocking movements of the keys. Then a third movement has to actually push the pin back. I'm not trying to convince you of its safety. I might be trying to talk myself into going back to an Alpine Butterfly or a delta link. I just want whatever is safest.
 
Ok, fair enough, but the quickie isn't auto locking in that when you let go of it when it's open, it stays open.
Don't mind me, this is a product of my training, and it is the requirement for life support hardware to be triple action, auto locking where I trained and where I work (UK and Australia) so I guess I'm brainwashed to an extent!
 
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  • #38
Screw lock Maillons are accepted for life-support, no? I have no real problems with using the slick pin in this configuration. They are referred to as being quad locking as it takes 4 separate actions to open one.
I received my HH x from Richard and I think he did a good job and it looks nice.
 

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Good point Bermy. Nothing is worth getting hurt over. I used a screw lock delta link for a year or so and it worked great. I just kept a box end wrench hanging on it all the time. Never a thought about it breaking or coming open accidentally.

That's a good looking HHX. Let us know how it works out.
 
What are the options or opinions for tending? No tether? Can a carabiner still fit thru the slots? Doesn’t seem as easy to take off an on especially up a tree, with droppable parts. So with 3 versions of this thing now I wish someone would just add a connection on the back of it for ddrt already
 
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  • #42
On my Hitch Hikers, I use no tending straps or tethers but instead just clip my chest harness into the same bridge ring that is holding the HH. It works perfectly, for me. Others have had trouble with the carabiner turning in the lower slot. Having a D shackle in the lower slot will stop that problem. Yes, it will be harder to take on and off compared to the carabiner. Richard has a workaround that uses a closed eye, swivel carabiner to hold the carabiner. Check it out on his introductory video about it.
The HH needs no special attachment point for DdRT/MRS use. Just clip the rope end back onto the same ring that is holding the HH.
 

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So with 3 versions of this thing now I wish someone would just add a connection on the back of it for ddrt already
It has been tested, but the HH body has to be in floating mode to work properly.
The principle is to share the load between the two pairs of slanted slots by the biner and the dog bone. The angles of these slots are important and set for that. If you put a permanent load on the HH body, this setting is no longer correct for one, and for two, the lower attachment point (biner, shackle, delta link for me) won't release the rope when you ask to. The HH body has to go down a little to reduce the tightening on the rope and to make it slides. Problem, the ddrt attachment would drag the body up. So, when you press the hitch down, nothing moves, unless you put on it more force than half your weight (+ a lot of friction). Even taking the slack out would be very difficult.
 
It has been tested, but the HH body has to be in floating mode to work properly.
The principle is to share the load between the two pairs of slanted slots by the biner and the dog bone. The angles of these slots are important and set for that. If you put a permanent load on the HH body, this setting is no longer correct for one, and for two, the lower attachment point (biner, shackle, delta link for me) won't release the rope when you ask to. The HH body has to go down a little to reduce the tightening on the rope and to make it slides. Problem, the ddrt attachment would drag the body up. So, when you press the hitch down, nothing moves, unless you put on it more force than half your weight (+ a lot of friction). Even taking the slack out would be very difficult.

Thanks that explains a lot.... but I still think there’s got to be a way! Put the connection at the top to hold it upright, or change the shape if necessary. At the least a loop or something to capture the anchor leg is a big improvement and keeps the hh from flopping around and allows it to tend like a hitch climber pulley
 
I've put 5.5mm tech cord, tied into an eye and eye, on the top of the carabiner as my tending clip-in, and DdRT termination clip-in point.

Paul suggested just ring a long-hole bowline through your bridge ring. For descending after working, I do this.

Seems like a rigging plate on the bridge, or large enough bridge ring is sufficient for terminating a DdRT system, tied or clipped.
 
I had a tending tether for SRT that I would pass my rope through before terminating for DdRT.
Kept everything neat and in line
 
Hitch Hiker 2 Holster for SRT tending. Just saying.
asc184-h-500.gif

http://www.wesspur.com/items/asc184.html
 
Will it work on an original HH?
If I tied a fixed eye at the top of the eye-and-eye tech cord, it might work better.
 
I bet it would. It straddles the body and the crab runs right through it. I like it better than the tether. It does rotate a bit on Ddrt though. But if it bothers you, it comes off easy enough. I wish I still had my HH1 and I would try it out. But I loaned it to an apprentice that left me. Never returned it. He did try and compensate me with a saw that needs rebuild. Little shit.
 
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