2511T VS CS 355 T

LeafCollector

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Northwest Indiana
Of course I've looked at the 192T and the 201 by Stihl.
The echos price and reviews are just so tempting.
As an amateur climber,faller/future arborist, which would you choose?
What's the weight on the 2511? I know the 355 and the 201 are in the 8# range.
I'm going to be remove at least 6 ash trees by end of season and one big oak.
Thank you
 
For starting out I would go 355. The 2511 is more of a trim saw than a removal saw, ideal for conifers limbing IMO.
 
Unless you get 2511 modded, the 355 would have more power for hardwoods. We have a 200T and 201T for removals and large trimming and are looking to add a 2511 for lighter pruning work.
 
I have both. The 355t is still brand new. I make big cuts with mine (cs2511t) a lot. I guess I should use the 355 more, but it is nice not having to tote the extra weight for 2 seconds more of cutting. I usually get a back handled saw for bigger stuff. To each their own I guess.
 
For sure for really big stuff we send up the rear handle saws, usually either the Husq 346XP (20" bar) or 372XP (24" bar). Maybe the 395XP once or twice for a HUGE multi-leader -- but generally we don't think to bring such an oversize saw up in the tree; too much risk of injury with the big 36" bar.
 
Most times I pull a cs500p with a 20" bar. Most times I have a place to put huge wood with one cut from the ground. Thank goodness I tell ya.
 
Why would a longer bar make you more prone to injury?
 
Sometimes it's the only way to cut a tree, with a big bar. No need for it to be dicey, with good work positioning. Might like a second climbing line or lanyard if a funky lean.
 
Dont forget there is middle ground in these too. 355T 271T 2511T
 
When my 192t pooped out on me I bought a new 355t, it was a noticable power improvement. But the 192t is nice when swinging around prunes or brushing out widespread canopys.
 
A fully modded 2511t should cut around as fast as a 355t which is advertised as equivalent to a 200t, but I can't confirm if that's true. Having half the weight with a 2511t can definitely make it worth it, then save money on a cheaper rear handle saw for bigger cuts. Just know a little 2511t is probably a lot more fragile than a 201t.
 
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  • #14
So I have 2 rear handled saws, MS271 with 20" and an old 14" saw who shall remain nameless;)
I swear that 14" is heavier than the 271.
August did a great job reviewing the 2511 which he had juiced by the saw king.
The way he was tossing that saw between hands says a lot about it's ultra light weight.
The trees I have lined up for removal will all required rigging for most cuts so speed isn't necessarily a concern for me.
I'd say the 2511 is the winner.
Hell I can always get the 355T down the road when I need more saw.
Thanks for all the responses.
 
Why would a longer bar make you more prone to injury?
Same reason a table saw with the blade sticking up 2" beyond the height of the wood to be cut makes for more injury chances. More unwieldy, more chance of catching something and kicking. I would say a 395 up in the tree is very, very rare for us. 372 is usually only at the main fork on a multi leader, where we need a 24" bar and have a stable position for it. Otherwise, it's 16" or 20" up in the tree -- bore cut or can-opener style.
 
Modds are neither here nor there. The 355 has more cc's which makes it a bigger saw. Don't watch August Hunnike videos. Mods are neither here nore there. All proprerly done mods will increase cc potential. If you want something akin to a 200t, then get the 355. But still... muffler mod it, at least. The other smaller Echo... muff mod, at least. All muff mods are going to (with Echo) do a great deal of good. Those saws are heavily restricted, and the mufmod ALWAYS does worlds of good.
 
I would take the cs2511t. I did twice. I also own a 355t and it don't get ran very much. Muff mod is a must! .43 gauge chain is helpfull.
 
Sometimes it's the only way to cut a tree, with a big bar. No need for it to be dicey, with good work positioning. Might like a second climbing line or lanyard if a funky lean.

Hard leaners you want to cut quick.

Severely hollow trees are not to be dinked around on, cut up. Get it down.


A bar can only cut a tree three times its diameter, without screwing around.
 
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  • #19
Modds are neither here nor there. The 355 has more cc's which makes it a bigger saw. Don't watch August Hunnike videos. Mods are neither here nore there. All proprerly done mods will increase cc potential. If you want something akin to a 200t, then get the 355. But still... muffler mod it, at least. The other smaller Echo... muff mod, at least. All muff mods are going to (with Echo) do a great deal of good. Those saws are heavily restricted, and the mufmod ALWAYS does worlds of good.

Ya but mods with tail pipes are xtra awesome! I just deleted my YouTube account, sry;)
 
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  • #21
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So I had the 355T and the 193T in hand. After 20 min of fondling and caressing the sale guy told me to shot or get off pot👀
I went with the 193T based on my experience level. It's just lighter and felt great holding it straight out.
Shot up my training tree yesterday and removed some wicked snags and a few dead limbs(4-5").
The saw performed quite well.
The best part is I can still go get the 335T a couple months from now:)
 
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