On-saw sharpening vs off-saw sharpening - do you do both?

Robert P

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If you have an on-saw sharpener, is there a reason to use a machine?
 
Don't overthink it if you have a sharpener/guide that's meant to be used with the chain on the bar that's how you use it. And that's all you should need.

Unless you are buying a real high end grinder it's not worth it for a bench or stand grinder. I had a Oregon one I tried out for awhile. Went back to handfiling.
 
Rather more complicated subject than I think Justin gives it credit for :).

If you only use enough chain to need to sharpen now and then, certainly do it on-saw and with whatever guide you choose, or by hand and eye alone if you have the skills to do so.

But if you go through several chains a week, a chain mounting grinder (as in, off the saw bar) can do the job with less effort, with a high degree of accuracy, and certainly be worth the cost over the long term...maybe a very long term...good chain grinders are not cheap.
 
I was waiting for more details from Robert before weighing in. We hand file (no guides), but do have an electric chain sharpener to give a whirl, now that we're getting bulk skip chain and are going to start spinning our own chains.
 
I think the hand held electric grinders are not very useful...maybe some can make a good sharp chain with them, but all I have EVER seen is a lousy job and wasted tooth.

On the other hand, a good chain grinder like Silvey used to make...worth it, though you have to go through a lot of chains to see the economic light at the end of the tunnel.

I've mostly hard sharpened for about 40 years, both round and chisel...and guess what?...I'm far better at it now than when I started :D.
 
Anything other than a silvey I've not heard/experienced good results with. The Oregon one I had the wheel was to small and could easily burn/temper a tooth. It was what I'd call a middle of the road bench grinder. I was very underwhelmed with its performance.

What worked best for me was handfiling with the saw/bar fully assemled and the bar clamped in a bench vice so it was secure and at a good height and preferably a good light right over it.
 
We are agreed on all points, Justin.

Good light is essential. That, and knowing what you are trying to achieve :).
 
Each method and set of appropriate tools have thier place.
We hand sharpen, guide sharpen, and own a silvey grinder for the square chisel chain. I will also drop chains off at the saw shop that were rocked bad. Their time "fixing a chain" is cheaper than mine. Pick your battles wisely
 
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I was waiting for more details from Robert before weighing in. We hand file (no guides), but do have an electric chain sharpener to give a whirl, now that we're getting bulk skip chain and are going to start spinning our own chains.
Not sure what details you're looking for - my first experience with sharpening has been with a Chicago Electric bench sharpener that I got from Harbor Freight that I have no complaints about. I set it to just barely kiss the teeth to remove as little metal as possible - which was enough - my perception is after the chain cut like new again. I recently got an on-bar sharpener at Home Depot just to try it for grins - one of the self-guiding units similar to this.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mIwR01xN33s/maxresdefault.jpg


I saw a video where a guy says he uses his on-saw sharpener for daily maintenance, sharpening with a grinder only once in a while. It got me wondering why you would ever need something other than the sharpen the on-saw unit provides.
 
IMO a grinder is only necessary if you have employees who run saws but cannot sharpen a chain and you have to sharpen their chains for them. People who cannot file will tend to push a dull chain longer than those who can hand file, while a good hand filer will stop at the first sign of dulling and touch the chain up. When a non-filer gets done with a chain and swaps it out for a new one, the chain is usually far past a quick hand file touch up.
 
In my old and jaded opinion , hand file w out guide (though a guide can help you learn at the start). Once a chain is on one of my saws there it will stay until it's done. I laughed right out loud at the GOL instructor when he showed us that swapping loops is the way to go , told him by the time he swaps and retentions I'm halfway through filing. Takes awhile to get good at filing but it's a skill same as backing up the Truck w the Chipper or Trailer hitched , just takes practice.
 
99% of the time I file the chain on the saw with a Husqy roller guide the other 1% is with a Oregon 511 with a ABN wheel for chains that have been rocked and have some service life to them. I lust for a Silvey but they are a pretty rare duck in this part of the world.
Image 1.jpg Shop bench
Image.jpg Tailgate
 
IMO a grinder is only necessary if you have employees who run saws but cannot sharpen a chain and you have to sharpen their chains for them. People who cannot file will tend to push a dull chain longer than those who can hand file, while a good hand filer will stop at the first sign of dulling and touch the chain up. When a non-filer gets done with a chain and swaps it out for a new one, the chain is usually far past a quick hand file touch up.

My guys fall into this category often. I hate it.
We also work around a lot of granite rock. It happens.
 
Not sure what details you're looking for - my first experience with sharpening has been with a Chicago Electric bench sharpener that I got from Harbor Freight that I have no complaints about. I set it to just barely kiss the teeth to remove as little metal as possible - which was enough - my perception is after the chain cut like new again.
We just got a Chicago Electric off-saw chain sharpener. Gave it a go on the 200T, 372 and 395 chains. They were ripping today -- very aggressive and fast cutting. We're thinking at this point to do this once a week on maintenance day, then hand file through the week for touch ups. We'll see how it goes in the long term; this is just after one weekend and first day out in the field.
 
GP, if its the economy grinder (don't know if there is a better one) if you mount the chain grinder onto a 2"x4"x12" block, roughly, the chain grinder will easily fit into a bench vise. This hangs it over the workbench. You can also use a couple of wood screws and screw it down to a work bench when needed, pulling it off when not needed. It will clamp into the vise you might have on the truck or chipper, and plug into the homeowner's 120v with an extension cord, if you know you're in for a Dull time.
 
Be sure to report in with how it goes. It's all fun and games until the teeth get tempered and you're left wondering why a regular file isn't doing anything.
 
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